陈静维 64165万字 96826人读过 连载
今年的最后一帖,索性将八月份的行程全部放在这儿吧,拖了太久了,之前写完两篇穿越帖后,脑子里好像对写帖没啥感觉了,过了这一段时间,心中也基本上有了大概的思绪,再加上最近结束了几门课程,可以腾出时间来赶在2013年结束前将图片和文字整理上来。此帖与大家分享的是今年暑假我完成贡嘎转山和亚泸线穿越之后的行程,两次穿越花的时间不到一个月,还有一个多月的时间便是这篇帖子的行程了。帖子分成两部分: 一、从云南经214、318、317、219国道搭车至拉萨。 二、单骑103.7元8天骑行青藏线拉萨至沱沱河(含纳木错)用布达拉宫作为这篇帖子的开始吧,它是终点,亦是起点。https//www.9ku.com/share/true_226495/singleplayer.swfps如不看回帖,可点击“只看该我,给予我精神上支持的朋友,同样要感谢,每次在路上看到你们的鼓励,心里都特感动! 旅途中每一位帮助了我,包括对我微笑的人,无论你是过客,或是和我成为了朋友,我都和你们说谢谢,有了你们,我的旅途才精彩! 感谢川西和西藏,不断的施予我,施予我以风景;施予我以感动;施予我以快乐;施予我以成长.... 从云南经214、318、317、109国道搭车至拉萨————终点亦是起点———— 来到拉萨前我以为这就是我的终点到了拉萨后我才发现它已经成了我的起点了我的终点已不知所踪 一年前我开始接触藏地,并深深为之着迷,时隔一年,再次踏入藏地,久违了。2012年8月16日,我怎能忘记这一天,那晚我的身体第一次与拉萨有了接触,眼角夺眶欲出的泪水充满的是怎样的一种情感啊,太多太多,感动、欣喜、艰苦....这一天是要来的,我知道,我会回来的,这回到拉萨的时候,我想哭,真想啊,可是哭不出来,没有泪水,也许是在2012.8.16就已经流完了吧。 因为今年川藏南线人太多,所以我改道上了川藏北线,所以才有了317、109国道的行程。可是就在我上了川藏北线的第二天,通麦大桥塌了,于是南线上的进藏者都涌上了北线,所以我又陷入了我不喜欢的“热闹”中,小小的郁闷了一下,不过北线的风景也还是很漂亮的。丽江:在宁蒗偶遇四个到泸沽湖的背包的,也是要回丽江,于是五人包车赶往丽江,每人50元,价格还是挺便宜的,到丽江的时候天已黑了,还好有个女孩在丽江住过一家很便宜的客栈,打电话过去,说是还有床位,我心想,终于马上可以洗澡洗衣服躺在床上睡觉了,亚泸线这几天天天下雨,我身上都快发霉了。 客栈价钱真便宜,第一天晚上床位比较紧张,于是我睡的过道上的床位,10块钱。第二天就换到房间里去了,好像是二十还是二十五块钱,这么便宜的客栈,真舍不得走。第二天洗了澡,洗了衣服,爽得不得了,客栈老板也挺好的。第二天下午我打算到古城里去转转,在去年我在路上听王哥和我讲起丽江,虽然没什么欲望,但来了还是去古城转转,天还下着细雨,我的伞落在屋角的龙布大哥家了,不过下的不大,没啥影响。丽江古城南门古城里的店面古城垂柳在古城瞎逛,石头上的城南旧事。不算广告吧,哈哈....我也不知道里面卖啥的古城里的川菜馆,我见过最多的菜馆非川菜馆莫属,开遍全国各地。古城建筑终于见到这传说中的一米阳光,在古城,艳遇似乎成了来这里的理由我瞎逛,一不小心在古城里找到了8264的旗帜,希望这旗帜像川菜馆一样挂遍全国各地古城酒吧神话酒吧,看上去很高端的样子转山转水转经筒我进一米阳光去看了一下,听到几个人在问向日葵视频色板APP官网员在这儿消费要多少钱,服务员说最小的那个桌子,一桌一千六百几来着,我马上闪出来。应该是“我愿化身石桥”,他这是木桥,有点不合适,嘿嘿....北京青年的拍摄酒吧,看过几集,就没再看了。古城外的大水车说来也挺巧,我在古城瞎逛的时候,遇见了在泸沽湖碰见的三个背包客。于是向日葵色板官方就一起逛古城,走到这家碟店时,我说敲敲鼓吧,不一会儿,雨下大了,于是我在碟店敲了几个小时的非洲鼓,主要是因为我比较喜欢敲,后面那小姑娘切歌和向日葵色板官方一起敲,走时在这儿买了一张碟。谁想?排着去。 逛完古城我带着三人到我住的客栈,,晚上他们在外面吹牛,我就不瞎掺合了,再说我也不是很喜欢,在房间里收拾东西,明天就准备离开丽江了。没什么留恋的,说实话,丽江古城与我而言,完全没有吸引力,我始终还是觉得这里浮躁多一些,而且古城里也没啥玩的,都是商店、酒吧。就那碟店还比较好玩。之前有朋友建议束河还不错,但天气一直不转好,想想还是走算了。就这样,在古城待的时间才半天,我就往香格里拉去了。 丽江的艳遇吸引了很多人,唯独没有吸引我,在丽江,我真的没有感觉的到有任何让我爱上这个地方的理由。很多人喜欢丽江,所以我就不再说太多了,到此为止吧,爱,不需要理由,不爱,也不需要理由。 搭车往香格里拉的途中是艰苦的,为什么呢?我哪儿是搭车,那天,天朗气清,我知道路上有很多人,但没想到有那么多人,还有一个什么学生组成的一个组织,好像有近百人呢,都在搭车,我遇见了几个,这么多人,不遇见都不行啊,他们告诉我,他们是到一个地方就去小学、敬老院....这些地方做好事,姑且划到公益旅行一类吧。他们要到虎跳峡,我心想这么多人,还是你们先走吧,我先走一段,结果这一走啊,就走了四十多公里,我自己都想不明白我怎么走了这么远。在路上歇的时候,都四点多钟了,我就伸手这么一拦,之前拦过很多次,不停啊。可是这次不一样,这次是停了,我心想老天还是眷顾我的,关键时刻给我以希望啊。司机师傅很爽快,我说搭车去香格里拉,立马让我上车了,上车后发现车上还搭了俩啊,司机师傅小两口在前面,人特好,途中向日葵色板官方停下歇的时候从车上拿吃的给藏族小朋友,和他们聊天发现两人很善良,在路上还看到了彩虹,漂亮极了,这是这一路上第三次看到彩虹了。到香格里拉的时候天还没黑,下车和司机师傅道谢后到了月光广场,让我意想不到的是,在这里竟又遇见了在泸沽湖遇见的那几个人,而且还有几个不认识的和他们一起,所以,接下来就一起在独克宗古城玩啦。在丽江前往香格里拉途中远眺被云雾遮挡的哈巴雪山这里好像是那啥长江第一弯来着,拍的角度不对,看不出来 香格里拉独克宗古城的月光广场,到这里时天刚开始黑,看到广场高处有一又高又大的转经筒,我想,这就是那传说中世界上最大的转经筒了吧,传说里面有上亿卷经书,不过官方数据好像没这么多世界上最大的转经筒,金黄色的经筒是独克宗古城的地月光广场上藏民们跳起了热情洋溢的锅庄,我一直想跳锅庄来着,可惜不会跳。锅庄是非常热情的舞蹈,配合藏族歌曲,跳起来很有感觉呢。这就是那最大的转经筒,在此又遇见了在泸沽湖和丽江碰到的几人。转经筒需一二十人合力才能转动,我转经筒三圈,完了入大佛寺上香祈福。相比大研古城,我更喜欢独克宗古城,虽然两座城是不同的民族,但很明显可以感觉到独克宗古城对当地文化的保护比大研古城好太多,在大研古城已经很难感受到纳西族的文化了,而独克宗古城虽然也与大研类似有很多酒吧和商铺,但其藏族文化却保存的很好,走在古城里的感觉就不一样,让人有留下来的冲动。与那几位遇见的背包客逛商铺时看到的天珠,这颗天珠38.9万,这还不是这家商铺里最贵的一颗。和他们去吃完东西在古城闲逛,独克宗古城里有很多外国人大叔请向日葵色板官方喝酒,所以就来到这家酒吧啦,大叔看起来年纪不小啊,一起玩的时候特嗨,这家酒吧是左边抽烟的太溢介绍来的,他是藏族人,认识这里的老板,那颗天珠的店铺老板也认识。这是我第一次进酒吧,虽然偶尔喜欢喝酒,但那都只是和朋友一起的时候。和这些来自天南海北的朋友一起喝酒,不问出处、不问名字,没有任何芥蒂,喝起来很开心。刚才一起吃饭的时候,与他们喝了一点白的,所以这里就没多喝,喝醉就不好了,开心就好了。对了,我还上去跳舞了,跳的可嗨了,哈哈....这是一家藏式酒吧,所以里面基本都是藏族人在酒吧闹到十二点多才离去,在广场附近搭帐篷睡下了。第二天醒的时候还早,有几辆旅游大巴刚好到广场,但游客都只是下车一两分钟拍下一两张照片之后就被导游叫上车了,每个人都有自己的旅行方式,我不能改变别人的方式,我只能改变自己,选择能让自己快乐的方式。他们是要去雨崩,而我是要进藏的,第二天花了十五元搭车到了奔子栏,晚上也是在那里扎的营,在奔子栏与一个路边的卖西瓜的果摊的藏族少年聊天聊了一个下午,挺有意思的,我还给他卖瓜呢。第一次拍星星,那晚奔子栏群星闪耀,银河划过长空,这是出发以来看到星星最多的夜晚了。这次我带了脚架,因去年在新都桥时星空像童话般美丽,于是今年我带着脚架准备在新都桥拍星星,但那几天天气不好,没有星星。不过在奔子栏总算派上用场了,可惜是第一次拍星星,技术太水了,相机也不是很给力,就给拍成这样了,下次还要再带上脚架出发。([]
最新章节: 第521章 穿越火线 ( 2025-02-26 17:48:41)
更新时间: 2025-02-26 17:12:15
新加坡樟宜国际机场航站楼内出租车行驶在绿意浓浓的街道上蓝天白云映衬下的街区 便利的交通、交流无阻的普通话、良好的治安管理、发达的经济、干净整洁的环境、绿意充盈的热带风情,充满活力的新加坡是出国旅游不容错过的观光地。 由于时间有限,很多游客都是跟团旅游,在新加坡逗留的时间只有1、2天,多是走马观花。 其实,如果能够静下心来慢游,新加坡是非常不错好地方。新加坡在细节上让人感觉很舒服,一切细节都是以人为本,换钱问路和交通都很方便。 进入新加坡,首先要达到新加坡樟宜国际机场。樟宜机场相当漂亮,据说是全世界唯一的5星级机场,也是国际上最繁忙的机场之一,给人的感觉是大而不空旷,干净温馨,到处都是绿化,很漂亮。 机场里有汉语指示,跟着指示,能来到出关与填入境卡的地方,机上没填的或者不合格的在这填吧,边上就是WC,这里有各种语言的新加坡地图和旅游资料,可根据自己需要随便免费拿走。这些新加坡地图和旅游资料相当实用和人性化(在新加坡市内,仅一张旅游地图就需要10新币,相当于人民币50元)。 樟宜机场有3个航站楼,t2和t3都可以坐地铁,t1需要坐机场的快客到t或t3坐地铁,在机场乘公交和打的也很方便。 在新加坡住5天以上最好办个Elink卡,地铁、公交、小超市和一些小店都可以用,每次坐车能便宜不少钱,离开时退换余款留个卡可做纪念。新加坡的地铁孩子90cm以上就要买票。 在新加坡旅游,完全可以自己坐地铁、公交或出租车去每个景点,很方便。新加坡的地铁系统发达,互相换乘方便,而且新加坡地铁站许多与公交站是纵横交叉的,可以不出站换乘公交车。新加坡的公交系统也很发达,上下车自觉刷卡就可,根据行驶距离自动计算收费。但新加坡车厢里不准吃东西、喝饮料,否则罚款几千元人民币,逃票罚款也很严厉。 新加坡曾是英国殖民地,开车习惯与国内相反,方向盘在右边,车辆和行人都是靠左行驶,刚去时很不习惯。有一天,看到一辆车里面一个很小的女孩在开车,很惊讶,再仔细看,她是坐在副驾驶上,她爸爸在另一边开车呢。哈哈! 在新加坡的七天里,几乎没有见过警察,更不要说站在马路边上的“协警”了,最繁华的十字路口也没有警察指挥交通。 新加坡的治安也是国际上出名好的地方,在这里旅游,你会感觉很安全。感受新加坡之一——漫步岛国看狮城 干净清新亦繁华(概述篇) https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2172957-1-1.html感受新加坡之二——休闲小岛走不停 亚洲最南寻风情(圣淘沙篇)https//bbs.8264.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2182169&page=1&extra=#pid50347652感受新加坡之三——参天巨树生满园热带风情绿无限(植物园篇)https//bbs.8264.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2231866&page=1&extra=#pid53500784感受新加坡之四——绿意充盈总统府世外桃源乌敏岛(总统府和乌敏岛篇)https//bbs.8264.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2253589&page=1&extra=#pid55203314感受新加坡之五——海风轻拂鱼尾狮 流光溢彩夜迟迟(滨海湾篇)https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2255988-1-1.html感受新加坡之六——狮城国花胡姬花千姿百态芬芳开(胡姬花篇)https//bbs.8264.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2299743&page=1&extra=#pid58352540感受新加坡之七——小印度里寻缩影甘榜格南回族情(新加坡河等篇)https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2322447-1-1.html感受新加坡之九——狮城春节气息浓牛车水里最喜庆(春节和牛车水篇)https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2330106-1-1.html感受新加坡之十——方式灵活有初院 环境优美好校园(南初篇)https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2344728-1-1.html感受新加坡之十一——享誉全球名高校 环境优雅美校园(南大篇)https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2354269-1-1.html 从首都北京离开心爱的祖国 中英文对照的新加坡地铁线路图 夜色下的首都机场停机坪 到达新加坡就遇到在国内难得一遇的彩虹天 行驶在街道上的公交车 有的地方地铁线和公交并行 干净整洁的街区 司机在清洗大车车轮,在国内很少见过这样洗车的吧。 新加坡的组屋(普通新加坡人主要的住房,有政府资助),组屋一层供居民聚集、休憩、活动用。 新加坡旅游地图 在新加坡更多的是全英文的地图和志 等车的人们 新加坡有的地铁站带有中英文对照的站牌 等机的乘客 樟宜机场停机坪 樟宜机场停机坪 樟宜机场航站楼内 宽阔的道路车并不多,新加坡有私家车的人较少(政府严格控制私家车购买)。 公交停车站 道路两旁都是绿色 处处都干净整洁 清洁工多是印度人 地铁站多与商场相接,且接的很自然。 商场里可谓玲琅满目 街上的雕塑 精品店 河边的街区 街边的大厦 街边的居民([]
斐济,南太平洋上的群岛国家,靠近国际日期变更线。老婆一直想找个大一点的海岛走走,要有美丽的沙滩要有小城市转转,人又不能太拥挤,思来想去FIJI转几天吧,国人可能会少一些沙滩上人头也会少一点吧。 地点选好了,设计路线吧,南京出发,只有两条路线,上海--首尔--楠迪(大韩航空),南京--香港--楠迪(斐济航空)。我选择了斐济航空,因为价格稍微便宜一些,一人香港往返8300港币左右,斐济航空官网直接信用卡订票。 https//www.fijiairways.com/ 酒店呢,本来是在BOOKING上预订了HILTON的房间,后来在新浪微博上找到了@没有蛀牙的LEO,他是斐济蓝洋旅游向日葵视频色板APP官网公司的运营总监,人很好跟我介绍了游玩细节,通过他们公司预订客房要比网上订便宜,由于需要提前预先支付给他们公司2天的房费,我还特意去银行做了境外汇款,HILTON的一卧室海景套房313美元一天含早。最后我很喜欢这个套房,直接住了4天主岛,没有去外岛住。 废话不多说了,慢慢上图。乱拍:500W手机,1000W可下水的佳能卡片机,1000W的佳能入门单反南京出发,春秋航空飞香港,春秋是在是坐着痛苦,膝盖直接顶着前面椅背位置太小了,痛苦的2个小时。个子稍微高一点的真心不适合坐春秋。 搞不懂,最近天天有航空交通管制,莫名其妙延误一个半小时。到HK啦,排队入关,9转18弯人虽然多但是前行速度还是比较快的!香港人效率值得赞扬。斐济人就慢的要死。找到FIJI AIRWAYS换登机牌,之前为了找个好位置拍照,已经研究了空客A330的座位跟机翼的位置,在网上选择了座位。向日葵色板官方的飞机,很显眼的FIJI字样。餐食还不错,主食是鸡肉配土豆泥!FIJI在国际日期变更线边上,比北京时间早4个小时,斐济第二天早上7点半到就是北京时间3点半,再加上晚上坐着睡不着确实有点累。 斐济主岛维提岛,首都是右下角的苏瓦。飞机到楠迪机场,黄颜色的记是向日葵色板官方酒店的位置。放到一张海湾的卫星图,右边能看到楠迪机场,图片南边两条主干道相交的地方是楠迪市区,很小,比国内一个镇子还要小。西部的港湾就是酒店区,索菲特、威斯汀、喜来登、希尔顿,还有一家不晓得叫什么名字。港湾特写,右侧伸出去的半岛上排列整齐的白色房子就是向日葵色板官方住的 Fiji Beach Resort And Spa Managed By Hilton。下面会附上我在飞机上的航拍照。图片中内陆的港湾叫Denarau港口。五星级酒店区,跟 Denarau港口 伸出去半岛,拥有最长的沙滩!BULA~向日葵色板官方到啦! 这两天上传图片都有问。开始有热带的味道了!香蕉树、椰子树路边很多。向日葵色板官方住的酒店,前台很小但是很有特色。度假村最高的也就三层楼,很多房子就两层楼。我们的房间,楼上顶头第一间,阳台虽然没有躺椅但是有一个BBQ烧烤炉子,这个我喜欢!房间说是要下午3点才能拿到,存了包就往港口走。那有很多餐馆、游客中心、超市、商店。就酒店走过去也就15分钟。酒店对面也是海湾都是资本主义的别墅跟私人游艇!4个小时的时差,我一夜没怎么睡,赶紧找店吃点东西吧。港口遇到个东北厨子聊了好久,厨子打算回国发展了。就在他家吃吧,门头忘记拍照了,就拍了隔壁的店名因为比较特殊。港口貌似就这一家中餐店。BY THE WAY,港口用美元换斐济币比机场换要实惠。第一顿饭,点了只龙虾98,炒了个牛肉,加青菜。加小费总共130,折合人民币400多点。当地的素菜着实难吃,可能是水土问。我的阳台!第一天的夕阳起居室,拉门后面是卧室,卧室再里面还有个拉门是浴室,干湿分开并且淋雨跟浴缸都是分开的。([]
行走乌孙,源于半年前一张湖水的照片。湖看起来不大,但很有灵气,湖中倒影的,是一座貌似没有名气的雪山,但却很庄重。湖和山的搭配,没有玛旁雍错加冈仁波齐的豪华阵容,更没有雅鲁藏布加南迦巴瓦的恢弘气势,但是不知为何,无比摄人心魄。整个照片所拍摄的,不像一个常人可以企及的地方。经过多方打听,湖的名字,叫阿克库勒湖,驴友尊称为天堂湖,而为了来到湖边,要走过一条叫乌孙的神奇古道。。。于是,心生萌动,放下喀纳斯,放下禾木,一心朝拜天堂湖。原来打动我的照片已经不知去向,就用自己的照片开吧!-------------------------------------------------------------------最终的行程(每天徒步时间与公里数为大概数值):D009.24行程准备提前到达伊宁集中采购物资D109.25田园牧道先包车伊宁到琼库什台,后轻装徒步到包扎敦木屋5小时15公里海拔变化1937m - 2827m D209.26荒原密境轻装徒步 从包扎敦木屋经过包扎敦达坂到新溜索(老溜索上游5公里处)11小时 20公里海拔变化2827m - 3603m - 2078mD309.27森林峡谷重装徒步 从新溜索到天堂湖沟沟口 12小时18公里 海拔变化2078m - 1992m D409.28天空草原重装徒步 从天堂湖沟沟口到天堂湖头 11小时17公里 海拔变化 1992m - 3008mD509.29湖景幻境重装徒步 从天堂湖头到天堂湖尾 观光休整 3小时4公里海拔变化3008m - 3006mD609.30雪山达坂部分重装部分轻装上阿克布拉克达坂后,重装下到包奥孜克里克河谷营地 10小时17公里海拔变化3006m - 3788m - 2892m D710.01千山万水重装徒步 走出包奥孜克里克峡谷 12小时39公里海拔变化 2892m - 1838m-------------------------------------------------------在走之前,就已经听说,乌孙,夏特,狼C,为新疆三大线路,不但路程艰辛,行程长久,而且风景绝佳,很多徒步爱好者和驴友将这里并列为国内徒步线路的里程碑式目。而对于这三条线路,则有大侠(欢迎大侠露脸)评论道“个人认为就难度来说:狼c》乌孙》夏特 但风景来说:乌孙》狼c》夏特 知名度来说夏特》狼c》乌孙.”经过多方面的了解,乌孙的相对低知名度,使得这里得到了较好的保护,原始的道路上几乎没有任何现代人摧残的痕迹,而简单计算了一下,所有前前后后到过乌孙的背包客,应该不会超过三位数。其实,好几年前,就曾经有过走夏特的念头,但是一直没有找到合适的理由,这次机缘巧合,不但走了比夏特更美的路线,而且还避免了过多的人潮 --> 对于一个驴子来说,人越少的地方越是兴奋,虽然我可能还不能算驴。-------------------------------------------------------而对于线路的描述,可以参考“流行2008”在召集帖中的描述:徒步级别:探险级活动(高风险+高强度难度+美景)徒步内容:峡谷穿越+翻越天山+高海拔徒步+溜索渡河+寻古探幽+涉冰水渡河主要面临的风险:狼群、雪豹、灰熊、高原反应并发症、掉进冰达坂的冰川逢隙中、被冰水河冲走以及其它未列出的风险小麦补充:因此,对于要走这条线路的驴友,尤其是新驴,一定要做好相应的准备。-------------------------------------------------------乌孙古道,从百度百科上查到:乌孙古道是贯通南疆与伊犁之间的交通便道,起始于新疆昭苏县夏塔乡境内、向南沿夏塔河谷、翻越冰达坂、终至南疆阿克苏地区温宿县境内,民间传说称唐玄奘曾穿越此古道。清初,南疆和田、喀什、阿克苏等地区的很多维吾尔族百姓经过古道举家迁移至伊犁地区的昭苏。这古道也是国内外探险爱好者涉足的古道。-------------------------------------------------------对于装备,为了首帖的完整性,我把本来在后面的描述贴过来,当然,鉴于几位驴友的建议,价格也一并列出,给大家参考。包类: 主包是deuter 55+10, 背了好几年了,这次懒得换大包,结果实际7天用起来稍微有点小,徒步过程中有些东西需要外挂,取东西方便性一般,自重不轻。但是vari quick的调节非常方便,air contact的设计也比较合理,背负系统还是非常满意的。价格:打6折以后1000左右,忘记详细了。小包是Quechua 一个轻量化小包,装东西还行,但是比起队友的kailas变色龙还是有一些差距。价格:免费,公司发的。相机包是KATA DC435,小倒是差不多够了,平常都是放在大包里,相机一般都是单另挂脖子上。价格:好像350。医药包杂物包洗漱包都是用的Deuter,平常用挺好的,对于长线半重装,这些重量确实需要考虑考虑。价格:每个包大概100的样子。防水袋是淘宝买得尖峰,两个XL,一个装睡袋,一个装衣服等,还有一个S的装一些小件换洗衣服。重量还好。不过还好最后他们都没有派上真正用场。价格:每个小几十。密封食品袋买了很多,主要是用来分放每天的食品和路餐。价格:一盒十几块好像。上身:外套:The North Face Hyven 冲锋+抓绒二合一。多年前买得衣服,冲锋的透气不行,但是防风防刮防撕裂还不错,保暖还行,徒步大部分时间冲锋都只能绑起来,只穿抓绒,而且是敞口。价格:打六折1200好像。内衣:patagonia C3, 非常不错,看着很薄,保暖还行,贴身穿也舒服,天热的时候单穿也可以,散热排汗都可以。价格:360.内衣:另外带了一个非户外普通保暖内衣,早晚在营地时候穿,怕冷的人还是很有必要的。价格:200左右。头套:淘宝买装恐怖分子的那种抓绒头套,平常用太热,爬达坂时嘴和鼻子部分湿气又有点重,还好这个头套嘴部开口比较大,直接扯到下巴下面即可。价格:小几十。下身:冲锋:Arc'teryx Alpha SL,非常不错!防水防刮防撕裂防风都很好,样子也是稍微处理过的,个人感觉比一般的筒形好看一些,能上就上吧。价格:1300.速干:Quechua某款。其实裤子自身没有任何问,舒适速干都很不错。但是有两个设计不太适合这次的行程,带同类裤子的请注意参考。1,裤腿不能拆卸成短裤,因此过河的时候要卷起来,但是问是这个卷起来的裤腿经常自己脱落,所以过河频繁的时候要不停的卷裤子,尤其当过河中间忘记卷起的时候,过河阻力很大。2.裤子侧面有普通的拉锁设计,这个拉锁刚好和主包胯部绑腰的承重系统重叠,可以想象:走路时候拉锁被承重系统压迫,不停摩擦大腿,结果就是大腿一大块伤疤(我出来后才发现)。对于第二点,一开始我还对大部分冲锋裤没有兜子表示遗憾,后来才发现原来是有好处和道理的。不过实际的擦伤与当时背包的调整等也有很大关系,不过当时已经想不到这些了,只管闭着眼睛走。这一点希望其他高手纠正和补充。价格:300.保暖:Patagonia C4, 保暖不错。10月乌孙天晴的时候,单穿C4+冲锋也不会嫌热,而翻越阿克布拉克达坂的时候,同样的穿着也不会觉得冷。价格:460保暖:另外带了一个普通的羽绒棉裤,早晚在营地的时候穿,怕冷的人很有必要。价格:200雪套:K2的淘宝货,不错。价格:小几十。冰爪:四齿简易冰爪,淘宝货,最后上阿克布拉克达坂的时候很给力。价格:小几十。鞋子:登山鞋:ECCO Yak , 这个鞋是多年前在瑞典当棉鞋买的(国内一直未见此款,淘宝上可以看到一款类似的高帮,但是实际比淘宝那款结实度和防护度高很多)。冲着他的Vibram 底,Goretex面,内外全牦牛皮,我赌了一把走乌孙,结果舒适度,抓地性能,保暖排汗,脚部保护等都非常不错,全程走下来脚部没有任何不适,只是出来后才觉得脚有发肿的感觉。其他队友穿着的一些比较专业的品牌,有磨脚,起泡等情况,应该是磨合不够的原因。不过因为此鞋表面为皮质,7天走下来外皮也直接废了。另外一点要提的是:Vibram的底子,确实比较怕湿的光滑的石头,我因此单脚掉河里两次。这里有一个小经验是:万一真的脚掉到河里,水从上部直接灌进去,要做的就是迅速上岸脱鞋,因为这个时候可能灌进去的水先是被你的coolmax袜子吸掉了,所以直接换个袜子就可以上路。我采取这个方法,而且由于鞋子内部基本为全皮设计,所以虽然经历过两次河水从上部灌入的经历,但是鞋子都还干爽,一点不影响走路。价格:好像是1600.过河鞋:Reebok 超轻厚底超软包裹型运动鞋,多年前买得 舒适度一流,这个鞋子倒是不怎么怕潮湿的光滑石头,因此过河比较给力,只是过完河,这个鞋也磨损的差不多了。价格:800.相机:机身: 索尼a100,伴随5年有余,小毛病开始出现,不过重量倒是合适。价格:7500,06年入手。镜头 索尼zeiss 16-80/3.5-4.5, 焦段非常好,重量还好,这次发照片下来,现在越来越喜欢这个头。价格:4500,港行。电池: 一共带了6块,实际用了5块半,第七天没有拿出相机,提前为过河做好充足准备,结果证明没必要全天不拿相机。价格:1个100左右。另外,这次的照片,除了缩放与名外,只有个别照片用到旋转,裁剪,没有任何照片使用色彩等方面的PS,一个原因是对直接的出片还算满意,另一方面是确实没有时间。。。其他:对讲:北峰320一对,待机很牛,6天间歇着开机,没换电池还有电,第七天为了保险换了备用电池。有体力的最好带一个,落单的时候很有用。价格:一个210.GPS:Garmin Dakota,不错!有可能的话大家都带上,万一落单的时候这个很有用。向日葵色板官方队好几个人都有落单经历,每次1-3小时,都是在黑夜走岔路的时候落单。价格:2200好像。睡袋:Camp Arctic 900, 第一天热得不行,后面刚好,重量好像比起hw没有优势,保暖绝对没有问。价格:1200.帐篷:Big Agnes fly creek UL2, 双人三季帐,只有1公斤,重量超给力,缺点是空间稍小,尤其是门厅空间较小,但是也基本够用,冲着这个重量也值了。价格:2300.套锅:Jetboil Group Cooking System. 这个套锅买了好几年了,之前上太白的时候表现非常给力,3000米的海拔,烧水超快,一点也不怕风。但是这次表现非常差,别人普通的炉子烧水三锅了,我这个一锅才勉强烧开,不知道是不是储存不当还是怎么。另外,这个锅有几个硬伤:一上面的盖子很难盖上,尤其是走这种早晚温度较低的地方,能盖上盖子的时候,只能是吃完饭了,用非常大的力度去盖才行。二底座的盖子更害人,经常忘记卸掉盖子去烧锅,结果最终底盖被我烧掉,弄的整个炉子到处脏兮兮。也许是我太笨?不过听说做同样事情的人有很多。三锅的外面有一圈保暖套,但是问是如果有这个套子,你烧好水往水壶里倒得时候,会有20%的水被这个棉套子吸引到其他方向,倒不进水壶去,很是恼火!总不能每次烧水灌水都要不停拆了再装这个套子吧。价格:700.气罐:这次买的大气罐,优点是比起两个小气罐重量有所减轻,缺点是太高了挡风板不方便挡风。价格:每个35.饭盒:多次用塑料折叠饭盒,不推荐。天气冷得时候那个很难折叠,最后我手上的大部分伤口不是爬山来的,而是折饭盒折的。价格:小几十。头灯:petzl E02p e+LITE 超小头灯。好处是非常轻,非常省电,两个纽扣电池号称够用40个小时(实际更多)。但是问是亮度非常不够!建议用更亮的。价格:200.毛巾:MSR 速干毛巾,手感非常好,吸水好,干的快,重量轻,推荐。价格:100水袋:Deuter 3L, 不错!价格:200好像,忘记了。保温杯: Thermos FES 800W, 超轻,超保温,中午路餐泡汤,翻达坂补温非常好用!价格:280.主锁:Simond Goliash HMS,不错,价格:100扁带:宽25MM长5米,不错,价格:100防潮垫:voca joy 菱形,不错。价格:60餐食:米: 必备挂面:必备广式香肠:建议带,大卫的最爱方便面:必备鱿鱼丝:重量轻,味道好,补充好,但是很难咀嚼,最后天天吃,吃的我牙齿的嘴很累很酸手撕牛肉、猪肉:重量轻,味道好,补充好,推荐鱼片:重量轻,味道好,补充好,推荐紫菜,木耳:做汤很好的原料,重量轻,推荐脱水汤料:中午路餐的热汤就靠它,推荐巧克力:必备压缩饼干:中午路餐主力,09式的,个人觉得味道不错,可惜和鱿鱼丝一样,非常难咬,后来一看见这两个东西就害怕军用能量补充剂:每天使用,但是效果不好评估军用谷物棒:隔天吃一个,效果不好评估馕:最后两天路餐实在咬不动压缩饼干了,就开始吃馕,结果发现配合海会寺豆腐乳实在是人间美味,推荐,尤其推荐最大最薄最不好带的那种,因为放很多天后这个最容易咬奶糖:带点吧红糖,白糖,盐:给特殊需要补充的情况预备的,结果还好没有用到军用罐头烟熏牡蛎:味道不错,重量还可以,就是经不住吃药品:藿香正气水: 基本一天一支肌肉拉伤:香姐赠送,从第二天晚上起每日使用消炎类:少量使用感冒类:未用拉肚子:未用高反类:未用止血类:未用-------------------------------------------------------------------其他一些有用信息:伊宁 --> 琼库什台包车: 温师傅 13031361604, 路线熟悉,推荐租马、马夫:向日葵色板官方6人需要3匹马托行李,走两天行程,实际算法是3匹马+1个马夫+马夫的马,总共5个(人/马),每个每天200,而天数则需要算回程,对于到达新溜索的路程,往返共算3天,因此总费用是3000,租马需要提前预定,要确定马并给马匹做好出发准备租马是从英克家联系的,英克还可以提前联系做好午饭,英克家电话:09996853711包奥孜克里克峡谷口 --> 黑英山乡的包车,向日葵色板官方当时租了一个敞篷车:货运三轮摩托,电话给福建的“尘土”了,自己却没记住。希望尘土可以看到此贴,帮忙补充:)----------------------------------------------------------------最重要的致谢:1. 致各位走过乌孙前辈,如果没有你们的探路与分享,向日葵色板官方恐怕至今还不知道天堂湖这么一片最纯美的净土!能想到的前辈有(不分先后):安行者,树,山北小蜜蜂,ant,凉风羽,自渡居士,流星2008。。。欢迎大家补充2. 致“树”,如果没有您的GPS轨迹,如果没有您非常详细的攻略,向日葵色板官方的路程恐怕不会这么顺利3. 致“树”,如果没有您建立的QQ群,向日葵色板官方恐怕现在还是散兵一群,不知道何时才能找到最合适的队友,一起向乌孙进军,然而可惜的是,这个群已经在16号被解散了。。。4. 致“大卫”,如果没有你列出那么吸引人的行程,我恐怕遇不到咱们这么优秀的队伍5. 致“yiling“和“大卫”,如果没有你们在我第二天肌肉拉伤时给我的鼓励,我恐怕真的要四处找马,不知是否能顺利跟大家一起完成这次行程了6. 致“香香”,如果没有你好用的药膏,如果没有你天天香喷喷的“猪食”,我恐怕不会每天这么滋润和舒服7. 致“木马”“五农”“骆驼”,如果没有你们帮我背负因伤而打算舍弃的物资,恐怕我就要和我的相机电池,T-shirt,旅游书,雪套等等说再见了8. 致“木马”“大卫”,如果没有你们在最后黑夜过河时,最及时的援助手杖和帮助,我恐怕早已落水不堪狼狈不已9. 致“屁股”,如果没有你的出现,向日葵色板官方这一路会少了很多欢声笑语10. 致各位帮忙的管理员和斑竹,如果没有你们的置顶加精高亮评分,我恐怕不会有这么大的动力更新完帖子11. 致各位看帖顶帖的朋友们,如果没有你们的一贯支持,我恐怕不会每天这么开心的回帖传照片12. 最后,也是最重要的,致单位的领导们和同事们,如果没有你们的批假与工作上的支持,我准备了大半年的行程恐怕就“如梦幻泡影,如露亦如电”了。。。----------------------------------------------------------------另注:1. 给牧业站的牧民拍了一些照片,本来是打算给他们寄过去的,而且留了牧业站的地址到一张攻略纸上(他们的地址就写在他们一个木屋的牌子上),但是回来后找不到那张纸了,哪位热心人知道可以提供一下吗?或者下次谁去牧业站帮忙再抄写一下地址?或着直接帮忙把照片送过去?呵呵,这样最好,多谢了! 队伍的组建,颇有意思,来来去去,最后一共是7+1=8人。7人包括:大卫,yiling,香香,五农,骆驼,木马,小麦1人是猪屁股,他是向日葵色板官方在天堂湖捡到的落单同学,也正因为有了他,向日葵色板官方后面的路程中频爆经典笑场。 大卫:网名大胃王,杭州情侣队之男选手。他是路线与时间的发起人,整个队伍中最专业的同学,其他队友的很多装备均由大卫建议购买,路途中路线的确认也主要由他负责。另外,队伍的收尾也是最艰巨的任务之一。 yiling 网名yiling,大卫的+1,杭州情侣队之女选手。她是我见过最厉害的+1,从头到尾的徒步,没见需要照顾过,当然,搭上帐篷以后的事情,我就不晓得了。 香香:网名香之,宁波速走三人组带头大姐,因此我也尊称其为香姐。香姐的厉害,一是行动超快,走得快,做事也快。二是性格超直,说话直,做事更直。三,也就是最重要的,绝对的养猪专业户:每天负责5-6个人伙食,把向日葵色板官方几个男生每天喂到撑得不行。最经典语录:每天早上杀猪般的叫声“起床了!!!” 五农:网名五农,宁波速走三人组之一。五农在整个队伍中,一走得最快,马都追不上他。二驼的最多,馕白菜气罐他背得最多。三闷得最骚,到了天堂湖搔首弄姿,实在风韵十足。四名字最搞,问其名字为何意,答曰:我妈农民,我爸农民,我农民,我老婆农民,我孩子农民,一共五个农民。最经典语录:干死马来妹! --》 这句台词不知道是否有人猜出为何意? 骆驼:网名骆驼刺,宁波速走三人组之一。骆驼是超有耐力的选手,无论走多少上坡,中间几乎不用休息,一路向前。向日葵色板官方30米的主绳和一根扁带也由他背负,实在辛苦。最经典动作:每次给他拍照完毕后,才想起来竖起大拇指摆pose。 木马:网名木马,广州单人队队长兼队员。他在整个团队中有几个最:一年龄最小,二唯一全程重装,三普通话最不清楚,四最会打扮,最会摆pose,五防晒涂抹最多,六最不爱说话,七最帅,八最讲义气。。。最经典场景:非常淡定地问:向日葵色板官方明天要不要翻坂达?“坂达”?我忍了几次,最后终于忍不住,一次笑了个过瘾。大家纠正了他一次,他说对了没两天,就又开始坂达了,中毒不浅。。。回答下面飞姐:“坂达”,就是咱们说的达坂,雪山垭口,木马先生对于翻坂达是非常上瘾的。。。 小麦:网名小麦,西安单人队队长兼队员。非自虐狂,但是出于对于美景的向往,什么样的路线都愿意尝试。足迹主要散落在国内各种传统与非传统路线和欧洲部分主要景点。 屁股:网名猪屁股,上海双人组落单队员,天堂湖捡到的同学。屁股最搞笑的,就是每天给向日葵色板官方展示和描述他和他队友带的扔的有意思的装备:12个苹果,1颗快烂完的白菜,一个人3个毛巾,一个人两个睡袋,3公斤的四季帐篷,8个气罐,3个炉头,高压锅。。。最后向日葵色板官方到了库车的时候,竟然发现他还有个手摇发电机,这个发电机主要是给他山寨手机电池充电,山寨手机则是为了在旅途中播放山寨歌曲来解闷。更加经典的是:骆驼在第二天捡到了一个对讲机,到了第四天晚上捡到他的时候才知道对讲机就是他队友的。介绍完队友,简单写一下个人装备,为了给大家参考,我会做一些评价,而不是简单的罗列,希望对大家有所帮助。另外,个人不是户外装备发烧友,难免不够专业,敬请大家拍砖。 包类: 主包是Deuter 55+10, 背了好几年了,这次懒得换大包,结果实际7天用起来稍微有点小,徒步过程中有些东西需要外挂,取东西方便性一般,自重不轻。但是vari quick的调节非常方便,air contact的设计也比较合理,背负系统还是非常满意的。价格:打6折以后1000左右,忘记详细了。小包是Quechua 一个轻量化小包,装东西还行,但是比起队友的Kailas变色龙还是有一些差距。价格:免费,公司发的。相机包是KATA DC435,小倒是差不多够了,平常都是放在大包里,相机一般都是单另挂脖子上。价格:好像350。医药包杂物包洗漱包都是用的Deuter,平常用挺好的,对于长线半重装,这些重量确实需要考虑考虑。价格:每个包大概100的样子。防水袋是淘宝买得尖峰,两个XL,一个装睡袋,一个装衣服等,还有一个S的装一些小件换洗衣服。重量还好。不过还好最后他们都没有派上真正用场。价格:每个小几十。密封食品袋买了很多,主要是用来分放每天的食品和路餐。价格:一盒十几块好像。 上身:外套:The North Face Hyven 冲锋+抓绒二合一。多年前买得衣服,冲锋的透气不行,但是防风防刮防撕裂还不错,保暖还行,徒步大部分时间冲锋都只能绑起来,只穿抓绒,而且是敞口。价格:打六折1200好像。内衣:Patagonia C3, 非常不错,看着很薄,保暖还行,贴身穿也舒服,天热的时候单穿也可以,散热排汗都可以。价格:360.内衣:另外带了一个非户外普通保暖内衣,早晚在营地时候穿,怕冷的人还是很有必要的。价格:200左右。头套:淘宝买装恐怖分子的那种抓绒头套,平常用太热,爬达坂时嘴和鼻子部分湿气又有点重,还好这个头套嘴部开口比较大,直接扯到下巴下面即可。价格:小几十。 下身:冲锋:Arc'teryx Alpha SL,非常不错!防水防刮防撕裂防风都很好,样子也是稍微处理过的,个人感觉比一般的筒形好看一些,能上就上吧。价格:1300.速干:Quechua某款。其实裤子自身没有任何问,舒适速干都狠不错。但是有两个设计不太适合乌孙,带同类裤子的情注意参考。1,裤腿不能拆卸成短裤,因此过河的时候要卷起来,但是问是这个经常自己脱落,所以过河频繁的时候要不停的卷裤子,尤其当过河中间忘记卷起的时候,过河阻力很大。2.裤子侧面有普通的拉锁设计,这个拉锁刚好和主包胯部绑腰的承重系统重叠,可以想象:走路时候拉锁被承重系统压迫,不停摩擦大腿,结果就是大腿一大块伤疤(我都出来了才发现)。对于第二点,一开始我还对大部分冲锋裤没有兜子表示遗憾,后来才发现原来是有好处和道理的。不过实际的擦伤与当时背包的调整等也有很大关系,不过当时已经想不到这些了,只管闭着眼睛走。这一点希望其他高手纠正和补充。价格:300.保暖:Patagonia C4, 保暖不错。10月乌孙天晴的时候,单穿C4+冲锋也不会嫌热。价格:460保暖:另外带了一个普通的羽绒棉裤,早晚在营地的时候穿,怕冷的人很有必要。价格:200雪套:K2的淘宝货,不错。价格:小几十。冰爪:四齿简易冰爪,淘宝货,最后上阿克布拉克达坂的时候很给力。价格:小几十。 鞋子:登山鞋:Ecco Yak , 这个鞋是多年前在瑞典当棉鞋买的(国内一直未见此款,淘宝上可以看到一款类似的高帮,但是实际比淘宝那款结实度和防护度高很多)。冲着他的Vibram 底,Goretex面,内外全牦牛皮,我赌了一把走乌孙,结果舒适度,抓地性能,保暖排汗,脚部保护等都非常不错,全程走下来脚部没有任何不适,只是出来后才觉得脚有发肿的感觉。其他队友穿着的一些比较专业的品牌,有磨脚,起泡等情况,应该是磨合不够的原因。不过因为此鞋表面为皮质,7天走下来外皮也直接废了。另外一点要提的是:Vibram的底子,确实比较怕湿的光滑的石头,我因此单脚掉河里两次。这里有一个小经验是:万一真的脚掉到河里,水从上部直接灌进去,要做的就是迅速上岸脱鞋,因为这个时候可能灌进去的水先是被你的coolmax袜子吸掉了,所以直接换个袜子就可以上路。我采取这个方法,而且由于鞋子内部基本为全皮设计,所以虽然经历过两次河水从上部灌入的经历,但是鞋子都还干爽,一点不影响走路。价格:好像是1600.过河鞋:Reebok 超轻厚底超软包裹型运动鞋,多年前买得 舒适度一流,这个鞋子倒是不怎么怕潮湿的光滑石头,因此过河比较给力,只是过完河,这个鞋也磨损的差不多了。价格:800. 相机:机身: 索尼a-100,伴随5年有余,小毛病开始出现,不过重量倒是合适。价格:7500,06年买的。镜头 索尼zeiss 16-80/3.5-4.5, 焦段非常好,重量还好,这次发照片下来,现在特别喜欢这个头。价格:4500,港行。电池: 一共带了6块,实际用了5块半,第七天没有拿出相机,提前为过河做好充足准备,结果证明没必要全天不拿相机。价格:1个100左右。另外,这次的照片,除了缩放与名外,只有个别照片用到旋转,裁剪,没有任何照片使用色彩等方面的PS,一个原因是对直接的出片还算满意,另一方面是确实没有时间。。。 其他:对讲:北峰320一对,待机很牛,6天间歇着开机,没换电池还有电,第七天为了保险换了备用电池。有体力的最好带一个,落单的时候很有用。价格:一个210.GPS:Garmin Dakota,不错!有可能的话大家都带上,万一落单的时候这个很有用。我们队好几个人都有落单经历,每次1-3小时,都是在黑夜走岔路的时候落单。价格:2200好像。睡袋:Camp Arctic 900, 第一天热得不行,后面刚好,重量好像比起hw没有优势,保暖绝对没有问。价格:1200.帐篷:Big Agnes fly creek UL2, 双人三季帐,只有1公斤,重量超给力,缺点是空间稍小,尤其是门厅空间较小,但是也基本够用,冲着这个重量也值了。价格:2300.套锅:Jetboil Group Cooking System. 这个套锅买了好几年了,之前上太白的时候表现非常给力,3000米的海拔,烧水超快,一点也不怕风。但是这次表现非常差,别人普通的炉子烧水三锅了,我这个一锅才勉强烧开,不知道是不是储存不当还是怎么。另外,这个锅有几个硬伤:一上面的盖子很难盖上,尤其是走这种早晚温度较低的地方,能盖上盖子的时候,只能是吃完饭了,用非常大的力度去盖才行。二底座的盖子更害人,经常忘记卸掉盖子去烧锅,结果最终底盖被我烧掉,弄的整个炉子到处脏兮兮。也许是我太笨?不过听说做同样事情的人有很多。三锅的外面有一圈保暖套,但是问是如果有这个套子,你烧好水往水壶里倒得时候,会有20%的水被这个棉套子吸引到其他方向,倒不进水壶去,很是恼火!总不能每次烧水灌水都要不停拆了再装这个套子吧。价格:700.气罐:这次买的大气罐,优点是比起两个小气罐重量有所减轻,缺点是太高了挡风板不方便挡风。价格:每个35.饭盒:多次用塑料折叠饭盒,不推荐。天气冷得时候那个很难折叠,最后我手上的大部分伤口不是爬山来的,而是折饭盒折的。价格:小几十。头灯:petzl E02p e+LITE 超小头灯。好处是非常轻,非常省电,两个纽扣电池号称够用40个小时(实际更多)。但是问是亮度非常不够!建议用更亮的。价格:200.毛巾:MSR 速干毛巾,手感非常好,吸水好,干的快,重量轻,推荐。价格:100水袋:Deuter 3L, 不错!价格:200好像,忘记了。保温杯: Thermos FES 800W, 超轻,超保温,中午路餐泡汤,翻达坂补温非常好用!价格:280.主锁:simond Goliash HMS,不错,价格:100扁带:宽25MM长5米,不错,价格:100防潮垫:voca joy 菱形,不错。价格:60 9月23日空中之旅第一班东航飞机,西安到乌鲁木齐还算顺利,第二班东航飞机,乌鲁木齐到伊宁晚点两个小时,结果到伊宁已经半夜三点。 9月24日前期准备伊宁独自腐败了一把,烤肉、烤肝、烤样子,纳仁、包子、凉粉、拌面、大盘鸡样样尝了遍。葡萄买了五种,可惜没有一个有想象中那么甜。馕买了三种,最大最薄的那种最好吃,但是也最难带。苹果和梨也试着买了点,没有发现什么特别。到了下午开始集中采购物资:7个人9个大气罐,每人三个馕,四瓶矿泉水,两个西红柿,一个黄瓜,一个梨,另外,蔬菜也买了很多,大白菜,茼蒿,小白菜,洋葱,辣椒,白萝卜,西兰花,前两天的FB全靠他们!另外,香姐还额外交代买了熟牛肉,鸡蛋,盐,油等。。。当然,少不了的就是联络感情用的烟一条多,还有自己人FB的伊犁老窖白酒两斤,每人一个打火机备用,还有一个大铝锅用来烧水和煮大锅饭。另外,包车也联系好了,和达瓦用的一个司机,温师傅(13031361604),人不错,路线熟,采购物资和节省时间都很在行。向日葵色板官方7个人1050,达瓦他们2个人800。 9月25日牧道田园1:00,五农,骆驼,香姐三人到达酒店,五农和骆驼就在我隔壁,也不知道他们怎么那么兴奋,两个猛男一晚上不停说话,搞的我也几乎没睡成,还好前一天一个人多睡了些懒觉。7:30,司机已经到了楼下,我们陆续搬东西,退房间,吃早餐。8:10,出发去火车站,迎接大卫,yiling,木马。8:30,全部人员到齐,目琼库什台!由于提前交代好,大家都已经在酒店或火车上吃好早餐,而且所有物资都已经采购好,所以特克斯并没有做什么停留。八卦城中间的观光塔正在施工,上不去,因此这里迅速掠过。过了特克斯不久就开始进入山区,路逐渐不好走,但是没有传说中那么烂,“颠脏路”走多的人这里就是小case。不过,虽然路差了点,景色倒是开始好转。路边,没有九曲十八弯,六曲十二弯却是有的。沿途的民居都很简单森林植被非常茂密 正在路途中,收到九品郎从英克家打来的电话,问向日葵色板官方要不要和他们的队伍一起吃手抓羊肉,哈哈,向日葵色板官方RP爆发啊,吃的都有人帮向日葵色板官方预定好了,预示这这一路的顺畅!到了英克家,香喷喷的羊肉已经煮好,英克的老婆赶快帮向日葵色板官方下面,我去陪木马买军胶鞋,遇到可爱的小卖部小老板一样纯朴的民房 九品郎帮忙预定羊肉,给向日葵色板官方节省了不少时间,向日葵色板官方要严重感谢!而他们自己则要等凤凰驴友的大部队来了以后一起吃了再一起走,毕竟他们是早就约好一起走的。为了前两天走的轻松些,向日葵色板官方从英克哪里提前预定了三匹马帮向日葵色板官方托行李。等向日葵色板官方吃完饭,马匹早已等候多时。大概两点左右,装好行李,出发,凤凰驴友的包车刚好到达。终于可以出发了!看向日葵色板官方烧水的铝锅明晃晃!一路人马马夫的家 自打上路,马一路不停的走,向日葵色板官方则是走走拍拍。路边的小溪一抹阳光马夫再整理一下行囊 向日葵色板官方的马夫人不错,可惜就是没记住他的名字,当然他骑马走的也确实太快了,向日葵色板官方的路还是要靠GPS来导航。这里,要严重感谢树前辈给大家无私奉献他的轨迹与攻略!木马独自重装开心的香姐兴奋的骆驼 大卫分给五农的艰巨任务就是跟着马夫,“保护”好大家的行李。结果证明这个任务给五农是最对的选择:向日葵色板官方逐渐跟不上马的步伐,而马则逐渐跟不上五农的步伐。。。自打这张照片以后,好几天没有拍到五农,他走的实在是太快了。。。前方的路程,遥远而美丽圆形的围场,不知为何物 木马重装走的很High!香姐也要追寻马夫的足迹我的任务是拍好照片 回复 小麦! 的帖子有个别帖子重复贴的照片已经删掉了,可是还在显示,不知道什么原因。。。路边一群漂亮的马匹骆驼给大家指路香姐则忙着摆pose沿着马道,走了一段,发现前方有一处左拐,而右手边下方河边有一个小桥,向日葵色板官方先是左拐继续行走,后来被前方的队员对讲机叫回,过桥才是正确的路线。过了河以后,宽阔的牧道通向远方放牧的生活是多么的惬意就是当牛都很舒服马队也需要休息继续上路,走西口!马的生活([]
长篇百余精美图文连载,可直接选择右上角“只看该作者”浏览,感谢!这是一份迟到了一年的作业,2012年的10月8日至21日,我来到了非洲南部国家之一的津巴布韦,短短的14天时间,跟随津巴布韦旅游局从首都哈拉雷再到接壤赞比亚的瀑布城,我在这个神秘国度溜了狮子,也当了传说中的津巴布韦亿万富翁,在这里看野生动物更加原始天然,这里的人民纯朴热情,这就是Zimbabwe,让人会永远回忆的美丽国家。 感谢纳丽德对我的津巴布韦之旅支持,这次旅程我也把纳丽德向日葵视频色版下载带到了津巴布韦,并送给了那里有缘的朋友。 在飞往津巴布韦之前,我的行李箱里一半都是药品和方便食品,因为关于那里的旅游信息少之又少,可在到达津巴布韦之后一路上这些也一并作为礼物送给了当地的人们,因为津巴布韦不是贫穷和脏乱。 成都出发飞北京,北京飞迪拜,最后迪拜飞往津巴布韦首都哈拉雷,中途还要落地经停赞比亚首都卢萨卡,这一趟旅程飞机算是坐值了,不过机票就要一万三大洋,心疼。迪拜飞往津巴布韦首都哈拉雷又需要十个小时,飞机上空望下去总是一片荒芜的南非大陆。 中途落地经停赞比亚首都卢萨卡,降落Lusaka之前飞机在上空盘旋了半小时,整的飞机上人基本都有要吐的趋势。关于赞比亚,后文会重点说一次,现在回想起来还是一把辛酸泪。 飞机上一路我还在喝难喝的藿香正气水,好吧,在进入津巴布韦之前我真的对南部非洲国家很敏感,方便的奈爱扣件,以及飞机上可爱的小黑妞。 在降落哈拉雷(Harare)之前,上空望下去满是石头阵,看来终于到地方了。津巴布韦在班图语中意为石头城,境内已发现200多处石头城遗迹,其中以大津巴布韦遗址最为著名。取完行李并填写完入境表后,一行人很顺利的入境,此时津巴布韦已是傍晚时分。 飞机上那两位可爱的小黑妞,我对她们充满兴趣,她们亦对我好奇,出了机场,终于进入到津巴布韦了! 黑暗之城,这就是我对津巴布韦首都哈拉雷的第一印象,许是赶上停电,整个城市都没有路灯亮,到了酒店倒是金碧辉煌,好不气派,这酒店有个美丽的名字,THE RAINBOW TOWERS彩虹酒店,中国援建的。 到达酒店之后很快办好入住,五星大酒店,大堂很气派,这是鸵鸟蛋,好玩吧!一夜好梦,梦醒时分,窗外,紫薇花开,这便是津巴布韦带给我的第二印象,紫色,满城,而这正是我钟爱的! 十月,正值津巴布韦首都哈拉雷满城开遍紫薇花(jacaranda),到处洋溢着一派生机盎然,美得让人沉醉。当地时间早晨五点半哈拉雷已经天亮,哈拉雷有着众多的美誉,紫薇之城、不眠之城、阳光之城,因为这里一年四季如春、百花盛开,所以这里也堪称非洲花都。 从酒店窗外望去,不远处就是津巴布韦执政党民盟也称公鸡党的总部大楼,向日葵色板官方住的五星大酒店,够气派吧! 其实津巴布韦五星级的酒店房间内设施还不如国内的三星级,国内来的人基本都入住The Rainbow Towers,虽然设施陈旧,但是安全第一,向日葵视频色板APP官网也很好。 不过彩虹酒店的大堂还是相当气派的,酒店里到处可见津巴布韦石雕艺术品,在哈拉雷北部150公里外的热带丛林中,有一个居住着八、九十户特殊居民的小山村坦戈南戈(TANGENANGE),这就是巴布韦石雕的发祥地。 再来一组,酒店的无线网络也很给力。在津巴布韦基本都是吃西餐,彩虹酒店的西餐做的很地道,我也见识了这里的人吃甜点居然比我厉害多了。在津巴布韦的中国人不少,但是来津巴布韦旅游的中国人并不多,种种原因吧,向日葵色板官方被这些不同肤色的人拉着拍照,不过他们真的很真诚。接下来要开始正式的旅程了,离开哈拉雷之前向日葵色板官方先去了Sam Levys' Village办电话上网卡,SLV是一个步行购物街,因为街道设计有些欧式风情,且为当地欧美人的重要购物集会场所,被在津巴布韦的中国人俗称为小伦敦。不得不称赞津巴布韦的3G网络信号要强于国内任何一家,虽然这个国家还需要中国援建,但是人家的网络太给力了。 哈拉雷城市内匆忙掠影,可见随处兜售的小贩,这里,应该没有城管吧。 加油站,价格貌似跟国内差不多。 津巴布韦特色,广告树,因为所有的广告都张贴在树上。还有背娃娃,也经常能看到。 漂亮的教堂点缀在城市中,与蓝天白云相映,满城紫薇花开,很美。 经过一所学校正巧遇到学生放学,津巴布韦学生的校服还是很漂亮的。旅程第一站乘车前往羚羊公园(非洲独一无二的狮子保护基地及基金会),津巴布韦的公路类似国内的省道,不过车辆很少,途中即景。 这是最真实的津巴布韦,虽见脏乱,但是却让你移不开镜头。([]
Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享,俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦,俺先来个免责声明:1。杨同学不认识俺,也没有授权俺,如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止;2。俺没有商业目的,译版版权归杨同学,俺啥也不要,也不承担法律责任;3。没有杨同学授权,不敢擅自发在国外网站,发在原帖处,荣誉归8264;4。俺英语水平有限,欢迎指正,欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分,不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦,希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子,原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co, where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30), 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
西藏,我回来了!——《第一站,感受杭州》 我说过, 我的一生必须有三藏。 只是未曾预料到实现的如此迅速。 原计划今年的年休假去新疆,然而在九月下旬,一拔又一拔的人都已经出发了,而我却因为职业的关系,七、八、九三个月不能休假,未能赶上。 接着朋友又打来电话邀我去尼泊尔,我丝毫未犹豫,一口应承下来,结果因为时间关系,护照未办理下来,扫兴放弃。。。 随着假期的来临,郁闷的我竟然神使鬼差的在航空公司的网站秒杀了一张从杭州飞往重庆的特价机票,接着便顺理成章的确定了西藏的行程。 10月11日,上午8:00到达杭州,入住杭州的“春暖花开”青年客栈,客栈的名字虽然很骚,给人感觉却一般,貌似所有客栈的老板,对男人都不热情,当然,女老板除外。客栈的大床房与周边宾馆的价格相差无几,但我还是喜欢青年客栈的氛围。 感谢浙江的四月安安,听说我路过杭州,特地从义乌赶到杭州为我充当向导,虽然向导有些路盲,但还是陪我渡过了开心的一天。 10月11日,上午8:00到达杭州,入住杭州的“春暖花开”青年客栈 西藏,我又来了!——《第二站:走马观花游重庆》 重庆作为我的中转站,有意多停留几日,无奈时间紧迫,只好走马观花的逛了解放碑和老街。虽然行“摄”匆匆,但也并非无收获,至少我感受到了老街厚重的历史和解放碑浮燥的繁华,走过解放碑和老街两个不远的地方,却似乎穿越了一个世纪,这种体验前所未有。我在想,如果有机会再到重庆,我会用更长的时间慢慢领会她的魅力之所在,虽然现在留下了一些遗憾,但这点遗憾却是美妙的,让我有想念她的时候。 苏州美女,水乡养育水样的美 事实证明,苏杭出美女现象延续千年不衰。 史上最可怜的东坡肉,无奈已饥肠辘辘,对付一下吧。 午餐的时候,在西湖的旁品尝了传说中的西湖醋鱼,NND,两个字:坑爷! 吴山广场随拍 吴山广场随拍 吴山广场随拍 西湖随拍 西湖随拍 西湖随拍 又见印象,时间关系,无缘一睹天堂一景。 西湖随拍 西湖随拍 雷峰塔旁的放生池,满满一池塘的巴西龟,罪过罪过。。 客栈的大床房与周边宾馆的价格相差无几,但我还是喜欢青年客栈的氛围。 客栈的名字虽然很骚,给人感觉却一般,貌似所有客栈的老板,对男人都不热情,当然,女老板除外。 重庆老街客栈,虽然很破旧,却很允满着浓浓亲切的气息 客栈门口走廊的涂鸦别致有趣 客栈的露天酒吧 客栈周边的民房 郁郁葱葱的爬墙虎覆盖着客栈的外墙,就像穿上了绿装。 和很多青年客栈一样,屋内的白墙上留满了旅行者的杰作。 客栈一角 很遗憾,在客栈没有找到8264的小黄旗,于是我慷慨的赞助了一面,客栈的老板很喜欢,立刻放到了客栈最显眼的地方。 解放碑有很多生动而且惟妙惟肖的铜像,最喜欢这个,真想和他对酌一番。([]
《 不朽凡人》所有内容均来自互联网或网友上传,源泰石业阅读网只为原作者的小说进行宣传。欢迎各位书友支持并收藏《 不朽凡人》最新章节。