李佩财 77287万字 48611人读过 连载
“百感交集!”这是出发前,大家做出发感言时我说的话,没想到,五天的穿越,我才真正体会她的含意! 我来过,我走过,我体会过;我爱过,我恨过,可是我知道,在这条路上已经无法回头了。 雪山沟位于天山西部伊连哈比尔尕峰南麓,东距独库公路乔尔玛120公里,西距尼勒克80公里,北与乌苏古尔图镇接壤。两者之间有一条神秘的马道鲜为人知,在过去的岁月里它是南北双方马贼经常出没的地方,随着马贼被不断的打击,这条马道渐渐被人们忘记....... 这条线路是伊犁行者户外于2012年7月探明走穿,因其穿越难度仅次于狼塔C线,故而命名为:小狼C。 从知道这条活动的路线到我参加中间差不多有两个月的时间,其实我不曾犹豫,我只是没有准备好。从五月份第一次知道户外,到走这样的长线我只有三个月的时间,没有走过一条一天或是两天的短线,我为自己的这个决定一直不安。不是不相信自己,是我不知道出去后到底会有多少的不可预知。感谢五味瓶,是他一直鼓励我,耐心,细致的解答我的各种问。 活动是8月9号——13号,这个日子对我来说,真的不是好事。一直在咨询有经验的驴,我要不要采取措施让我的经期推后,各种说法的结果是对身体不好,我做着顺其自然的准备。7号,我出发去伊宁市,一路的不顺,眼镜丢了,早餐没了,车在半路抛锚了。。。我告诉自己:好事多磨。8号凌晨5点,我到达伊宁市,安顿好住宿地天已经麻亮了。这几天一直感觉经期要来,这个让我纠结,一早出门去了药店,毫不犹豫的买了短期避孕药,在药店就吃下了,希望可以将经期推后。这一天,热情的米菲一直陪着我,准备着临行前的小东西。去拿了给每个人分配的食物,5公斤。 其实我一直很混乱,已经有两天的时间了,我不知道如何写下这五天的经历,不知道如何下手。就是连最简单的记录,我都做不到。。。活动领队:孤魂 雪杉 五味瓶参加队员:尘烟(父子) 塞外の西风 黑骏马 米菲 七彩 过客(母女) 张单 谢 星星 咖啡不加糖(夫妻) 柠檬树孤魂。被伊犁的驴友们亲切的称为:驴爹。伊犁户外的领队之王,非他莫属。55岁的他,全队负重最重。遇有险境总是一“驴”当先雪杉。一直走在最前面探路,大家的方向。本人一直觉得他很文艺,戏喊他文艺青年。歌唱得很好。伊犁当之无愧的领队之首。摄影大师。五味瓶。大众情人。耐心,细致,周到,伊犁户外的后起之秀。 尘烟父子。尘烟是向日葵色板官方这次的摄影,我的图片很多来自于他的作品。儿子苏涛,90后小伙子,很坚强。父子俩曾骑行独山子--库车217线。塞外の西风。话不多,但很细心。与我一起在队前走了三天。强驴一个,头一天晚上精疲力竭,第二天早晨依然可以走在队前。黑骏马。强驴一个,话也不多,但会为大家默默做事。他、我和塞外の西风,相互鼓励在队前一同走过三天。米菲。很有女人味,性格很开朗。过河时总是会喊:“唉哟!妈呀!”七彩。很细心,很会照顾人。每天晚上扎营后,总是默默的协助驴爹为大家准备晚餐。过客母女。队中年纪最小的女孩子静静,只有十四岁。可谓小强驴。张单。很帅气的小伙子。咖啡不加糖夫妇。一对在路上结下的姻缘夫妻。相互的爱好,相互扶持,一起走过。柠檬树。只为曾经走过,路过,经历过,我独自一人与伊犁的驴友们一起感悟了五天。一生都不会忘记的五天。 谢。不知道应该算是新疆人还是湖南人。19岁前在伊犁,19岁后去了湖南,现在又回来。她自己说,在湖南她不是湖南人,在新疆她也不是新疆人。强驴一个,穿着一双不是走长线重装的鞋,走了五天长线重装。星星。真正的强驴娃子一个。看着探路的雪杉的脚后跟走了两天,跟着翻达坂的驴爹第一个翻过最后一个达坂的女孩子,在读高中生。大家都建议孤魂和雪杉收她做关门弟子。 第一天(8月9号) 早晨六点半,米菲打电话叫我起床。七点多一点,向日葵色板官方已经来到了集合地点。大家整装准备出发了。孤魂果断的让我卸下了帐篷,说女人坚决不背帐篷,我很感动,这是为了给女人减负。向日葵色板官方一行十七人坐着大巴车先是来到尼勒克,然后转乘一辆50年代生产的六驱嘎斯车朝山里进发了。在这里不得不特别交待一下这辆六驱嘎斯车,向日葵色板官方进山的头天晚上下雨,路上满是泥泞,这车牛X到遇沟过沟,遇坎过坎,遇泥泞深陷地过泥泞深陷地,遇坡爬坡,由于它的给力,向日葵色板官方少走了四公里的路。集合。整装待发。。。到达尼勒克转乘的牛X六驱嘎斯车装车,装人,装驴瞧这范。。。大哥大呀这路对这辆牛X的六驱嘎斯车来说如履平地骑马的牧民、跟随的牧狗,眼望着一车兴奋的驴,不明就里到达二牧场目的地,全体合影,向日葵色板官方的五天将从这里真正开始简单的午餐居然有卤鸡吃,那是相当的给力呀大家收拾装备,上包,出发。。。行走的第一站,过河,还好有横木,走过这段独木桥就回不了头了。在这里,我要特别感谢孤魂大哥,因为我有恐高症,假装很镇静的我,无比惶恐,是驴爹牵着我的手,走过了这第一站,让后面的我坚定无比的战胜着自己。沿着这样的马道,向日葵色板官方走向大山深处渐入密林稍作休息。后面的人马还未到,开路的雪杉又上路了第一天,这样的上坡大家走得还算轻松第一次过河失败,水大,水急,孤魂怕女人过不去,放弃了这个过河点,继续寻找过河点上天庇佑。在第一次放弃的过河点上游不远处居然有一横在河面上的松木,孤魂和雪杉选择在这里过河,免去了大家的冰冻之苦。孤魂依然一“驴”当先。过河后大家稍作休整沿着河道大家穿行在密林中山中的野果山花烂漫,无人欣赏她也开得如是娇艳野果扎营。准备晚餐。驴爹是大厨,五天里都是他为向日葵色板官方准备丰富的晚餐。户外的男人们都很细心、周详,一扎好营,男人们就会先烧上开水,让向日葵色板官方这些女人们喝上暖暖身子,也会在瓶子里灌上热水让向日葵色板官方放在睡袋里暖脚驱寒。在这样无人的松林深处,我们这些女人们体会着、享受着男人们的百般呵护。驴爹出发前给大家炒了一大锅的肉哨子。向日葵色板官方五天的营养美味。瞧!咱的作料还全活着呢吧茄子炒肉专为素食者炒的葫芦 在路上采的蘑菇,直接蘑菇炒肉了各种吃,那是相当的香呀餐后小酌两杯,既驱寒又暖身。在这里五味瓶深情一唱,歌声在这寂静的山林里份外的悠扬 第一天路程不是很远,孤魂和雪杉说第一天让大家热热身,不能走太多的路,不能让大家拉伤。很细心的领队。驴爹给每个帐篷发了一瓶红花油,睡前再三交待向日葵色板官方把关节各处都擦擦,搓搓,既可解乏,又可驱寒,说这山里湿气重。说实话,第一天,我的两个肩膀和两边的胯就隐隐地疼,按照驴爹的说法擦了红花油。钻进帐篷,寂静的山林里不远处河水冲撞岩石的声音一直在耳畔,一直的失眠依然困扰着我,一夜无眠。。。(待续) 第一天,行程八公里,海拔上升336米。向日葵色板官方五天重装徒步的起始点塞口阔拉沟口海拔1980米,晚上8点扎营点海拔2316米。第一天的行程写完,我就写不下去了,因为不是自己想要的,不满意。语言不满意,图片也不满意,相机在我包里几乎背了五天没有拿出来过,原因只有自己知道。。。每天都真的好累,根本没有一点点想要照相的冲动,笨重的相机挂在脖子上实在是个累赘。。。唉! 第二天(8月10号) 几乎是苦等到天明,七点半,驴爹的一嗓子:起床了!拉开了这一天的一幕。钻出帐篷,外面很冷,天已大亮,高大的松林中,点缀着向日葵色板官方那几顶绚烂的帐篷,氤氲的空气和天光。潮湿的空气吸入肺中,冰冷、畅快。山花仍旧烂漫,今天是一个好天气,上天垂爱着向日葵色板官方这一群痴狂的驴。这个早晨我还能做到洗个脸,刷个牙,还细心的梳了一下我的小辫,在以后的几天里,这一切都免了,离冰川越来越近,河水越来越刺骨,我连碰一下的勇气都没有。 早餐既简单又丰盛。奶茶、豆浆、馕、肉。由于没有睡好,我毫无胃口,塞一嘴巴的食物,就是咽不下去,米菲、五味瓶一直在劝我多吃点,不然没有体力。真心谢谢他们。八点半拔营出发。这一天,向日葵色板官方又过了一次独木桥,过了三道河。而我,很幸运的过了两道河,还都是五味瓶把我背过去的,这两道河是我们过的水流最急、最深的河,每每想到此,心中的感激之情真的不能言表,没有经历过的人真的体会不了,在河水中多走一趟是多么的痛苦,对自身的伤害又是多么的大,站在刺骨的河水中,感觉到的是钻心的刺痛。而这些男人们要来回走好几趟,背人,背包。 而我之所以能少过一趟河,那是我第一次体会到,人原来可以离死亡那么近,那么近,只需要脚下一滑。。。当大部人还没过完河时,我和黑马跟着雪杉已经又上路了,沿着河道继续走,雪杉一直想给向日葵色板官方再找一处地方,试图不下水就可以到河的对岸。我没有想到就是这样的一跟,让我第一次知道“户外有风险”这句话的真正意义。当向日葵色板官方沿着河道走时,一直没有找到合适的过河点,而前面又无路可走了,唯一可以做的就是爬上左侧很陡的山坡,浅露的草皮,打滑的沙砾,感觉垂直八十度的坡度,我几乎是全身趴在山坡上爬行,就这样,身后很重的包依然有随时都会把我拉下山坡的感觉,手没有可以扶,可以抓的地方,脚没有可以踩,可以扒牢的地方,看着雪杉和黑马过去的地方,我却没有可以下脚的去处,在那一刻,惶恐油然而生,一身的冷汗,看着向山下滚落的小石块,我感觉那就是我自己,只要一个不小心,只要脚下一滑,可能连一声惊叫都来不及发出。。。当我终于爬上山坡,对着黑马说的第一句话就是:我***要是再爬一次这样的山,我就不是人。黑马无语的笑我,看得出来,他也爬得很惊心。而这句话,在第三天里,得到了很好的验证:我只是一头驴,一头强悍、倔强的驴。。。 所幸的是孤魂领着剩下的大部人马,没有跟着向日葵色板官方爬那个山坡,他们选择了在山坡下过河,这是英明的孤魂做的最英明的决定。第二天过独木桥,大家已经没有惊心动魄了,都过得很从容。孤魂给每个过桥的驴们交待着要领。男驴们都拿着两个包过桥,女人大多都是不负重过去的。我也已经可以过得很从容了,过之前孤魂跟我说,手千万不要放开绳子,不论遇到什么情况都不要松开抓着绳子的手。那一刻,我知道,原来大家挑战的都是自己,自己才是自己的敌人。而我跟自己过招,胜了一个回合。五味瓶最后把我的包背过了河。感谢伊犁的男人们。继续上路,松林渐远了终于有了稍微平坦点的路,开始有了裸露的岩石,说明向日葵色板官方的海拔在一步步升高护山金牛?看谁敢从此过。。。走这段的时候,一直有一头牛跟着我走了很长一段路,吓得我要命,一直怀疑是不是我穿的衣服的原故,所以这段路,我脚下可是生风一般呀,感谢牛大哥了这马。。。这牛。。。绝了过河。这是过的第一道河,河宽,水流急,河水深。难度高。感谢五味瓶,将我背过了河。趴在他背上我都可以感觉到水流得很急,他脚下走不稳。咖啡背着两个包过河,河水太急,他脚下站不稳,在这里摔到了河里,还好人没事,只是冲走了他的一双鞋。可见这看似平缓的河面,其实水流很急的过完河,休息,简单的午餐。继续上路,今天的任务还没有完成。一步步朝冰达坂进发裸露的岩石更多了在这样的巨石间,向日葵色板官方走了很长时间。会当凌绝顶沼泽里湿湿苔藓上开的小花。生命有时真的很惊人,你看开的多惊艳不知名的花开在这湿漉漉的湿地里,也不忘展现自己的美草地大片退却,空气中的冷气提醒着向日葵色板官方,离冰川越来越近了这泉水,入口甘甜我无语了。。。小花踩上去软软的,下面都是水这红配绿咋就这么美呢顽强的生命在哪里都能开出醉人花来,顽强的生命在哪里都可以展示自己的美丽。在我爬坡的时候,大队人马正在过的第三道河看来河水依然很急,大队人马过河时,向日葵色板官方已经在另外一个山头了。胆战心惊后,小憩一会,给自己压压惊。 过河扎营。 第二天的晚餐是面条、三菜。五味瓶知道我不太吃肉,专门炒了素莲花白早早给我盛了出来。当我把黑马下的挂面拌在碗里,我依然毫无味口,一碗饭从头吃到尾。说实话,由于海拔太高,面根本就煮不熟,然然的,黑马看出了我吃不下去,一个劲的跟我说,必须吃完,必须吃完,不许剩饭。驴爹也看出我吃不下去,叫我过去把蒜苔炒肉的热汤给我盛了些,米菲、五味瓶都在劝我多吃些。现在想起,我依然满含感激的泪水。大家如亲人般的关心,呵护着我。在这里我真心谢谢一起走过的伊犁的驴友们,是你们让我体会到户外真的亲如一家。谢谢你们!!白天跟五味瓶说起我睡不着,让他晚上把手表给我,我只想知道夜的时间走的有多慢,睡前五味瓶专门把他的表给我,虽然由于没电,那表我啥时候看都是一点半,但这一点也不影响我对伊犁驴友的感激。(待续) 第二天:行程14公里,海拔上升930米。(扎营地海拔3048米) 第三天(8月11号) 第三天,依然是七点半,驴爹的一嗓子:起床了!拉开了这一天的序幕。早晨的山中,依然是个好天气。没有城市的喧嚣,没有城市的狼烟。吸入肺中的是大自然再清新不过的氧气了。简单的早餐后,大家整装出发。对于这一天,我的思绪、我的记忆一直很混乱,记得最清晰的就是翻冰达坂(3670米),在我感觉中是又一次体验了生与死的距离。这一天过了四趟河,冰川下的河水,依然钻心刺骨的疼。这一天我冻得几乎失温,夜晚睡在四周都是水的河床上,一晚上都是冰冷,感觉身子底下都是水,一晚上我都将手垫在腰下。漫山遍野的小花生命在这里释诠真正的高山雪菊 天地的尤物漫山遍野的雪菊高山野罂粟点点滴滴的小花点缀着这高山之巅冰川就在眼前了绿草、岩石、碎石破、千年的冰川娇艳向冰川一步步靠近跨过这冰川河流、走过这草地([]
最新章节: 第521章 全职高手4荣耀之战 ( 2025-02-14 23:02:06)
更新时间: 2025-02-14 21:40:09
楔子最近一直听许巍的新专辑感觉他的声音有与生俱来的一种感伤感受歌者和旋律传递出的自由与信仰风格延续以外 编曲配器的精致让人难忘从他曾经的彷徨迷茫到如今安然的心之归属成长的印记 历历在耳一旦印证内心坚定所向 一切便会有所不同我们一直都会成长 在路上 其中一首歌 世外桃源里面写着从人间到天上 从天上再到人间这生生世世的轮回变幻无常此时此刻 一切刚刚好向日葵色板官方若都在 就已足够---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------时间:2013年2月1日晚深圳出发人物:禾牧 目的地:2.2-2.3 马来西亚吉隆坡(转机+过境)城市游览 2.4-2.8 柬埔寨暹粒吴哥 金边(转车+过境)城市游览 2.9-2.16 越南西贡 美奈 大叻 会安 岘港 河内 南宁转机深圳----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------地处热带与亚热带的东南亚地区并不像向日葵色板官方将一年分四季所有月份皆炎热 于是分为旱季与雨季2月处于旱季 少雨禾牧精简行装 除相机外 仅整理出一个38L的背包 仍空出约一个顶包的空间用于机动虽仅是旅行 大部分衣物都是快干类的毕竟半月时间 频繁更换地址 需要大量换洗按时间顺序。出发。2.1傍晚 禾牧一个人坐地铁去机场 中途换一条线 共耗时约一个小时 真滴很方便哇check in 过海关过安检候机一切顺利这次是在11月预定的AirASIa从深圳直飞吉隆坡 票价含税+机场大巴 接近800人民币(因为并不打算写成一篇大大的攻略 禾牧实在记不住数字和太多细节 记得的部分 禾牧会尽量写明白 给大家参考 不足不细致的地方还请包涵 可回帖问)亚航 亚洲最大的廉价航空公司 巨大的吞吐量和丰富的航线为旅行者提供亚洲及大洋洲的优惠机票在大促时抢票 禾牧也是菜鸟这次购买的时机稍晚 11月才确认行程 本来可以更优惠 大概3折500元所以经验就不赘述了经过两个多小时的夜间飞行灰机降落在吉隆坡的LCCT相比吉隆坡的国际机场条件稍差进入大厅 替换店 警察执勤点 申请过境的柜台在一处 面对它们的右手边就是rest room可以整理行装目前的马来西亚过境政策没有变化走航空 持有效护照且有第三国有效证和机票 可免费申请 停留120小时马来西亚与中国同在东八 无时差已经是2.2的凌晨在灰机上 禾牧在杂志上看见一句话 觉得很带劲儿only diamond can cut diamondonly the best can satisfy the best 因为是廉价航空 一切从简飞机上不会有免费饮用水和餐食若没有在网上提前预定 可以直接在机上购买基本会停在停机坪比较偏僻的位置深圳起飞时有摆渡车吉隆坡降落时要靠人腿不过机场不大 并不远另外关于随身行李的问 要说明一下亚航有严格的随身行李重量和体积要求不过禾牧38L的背包在这两方面都超出了规定并没有遇见关于此的实际检查我还看见60L的背包上了灰机咨询亚航得到的答复是 随身行李属于抽检范围so 一切看人品不过看实际情况 检查流程基本已形同虚设只要没有随身违禁品和超液体 可以过当地机场的安检就欧了亚航的机场大巴半夜都有 亲们不用担心 9-10马币一人打车也是可 但是贵贵 到市区大概80马币1马币约=2人民币禾牧在市区下车在空旷大街找预定的酒店的事迹就不汇报了大巴的终点中央车站方圆1公里内遍布各种价位丰俭由人的guesthouse和酒店如果亲们也是晚到或者不熟悉地形建议第一晚定在车站周边 方便迅速落脚禾牧两晚都住同一地方 因为中央车站实在太方便像吉隆坡的交通引擎+指挥部 哪儿哪儿都能到 基本半小时以内酒店的窗景哇 早餐哇 有禾牧微博的童鞋们都门儿清哈就不发这儿了第二天上午踏出酒店的街景空气阳光美好 热浪热情扑面 一路走回中央车站禾牧用出发前在国内换好的美金exchange马币大约1美金=3马币换钱时 别忘说一句small change please零钞更好用 坐车吃饭方便吉隆坡地下+地上轨道交通很发达 也有人工售票窗口 窗口就有地图供应所以亲们别发怵 体验当地的公共交通也是旅行的美好内容街景+中央车站内景 替换店的小伙很热情帮禾牧指路 在哪里买车票 坐到哪一站 多少钱当地人很乐于跟旅行者沟通 提供帮助不过前提是你爱微笑say hello并且听得明白他们的卷大舌头英语替换店旁边的明信片禾牧没有买这样带回来给你们看见不是更好根据乘坐的线路不同车票分为纸质和硬币式禾牧需要坐一站去老火车站以及周边的国家清真寺 伊斯兰博物馆啥啥的不是因为太炎热+不熟悉地形一站地儿 走着去就欧了没有屏蔽门 喜欢各种走边边站边边的譬如禾牧本人 要注意安全啦还是往里站吧车况还是很好滴 崭新新的 人况也是安全有序靠谱滴老火车站 语言描述太苍白还是看图有真相吧若有时间闲坐长凳等一班车到来 停在你面前 看来来往往 上上下下 面部模糊的人群 再目送它离开不要觉得是一件没有意义的事情再说也浪费不了很多时间旧旧的老时光印刻在目力所及的一切范围无声的诉说应该就是这样了日光打在上面 会留下什么痕迹铁皮车厢 不再使用被粉刷的新新的重新接受岁月洗礼蓝 红 白纯粹的记忆唉 禾牧不是经常听梁静茹童鞋的歌少年时代也曾喜欢过小清新的无印良品他们都是马来人民在亚洲音乐界的骄傲当我看着这些老旧到甚至已显出斑驳的场景时心中满是旋律什么旋律 不小心忘了应该就是她和他们的其实禾牧喜欢旧时光就像喜欢自己看着它们映照自己从旧时光里翻墙出来不要抱怨太快了点阳光就是满心满眼的 来不及躲闪各种地方抬眼就能看见吉隆坡塔所以除非你是个塔迷 非登不可否则不用到它的脚下 各种遥望 并不遥远找准方向 向国家清真寺进发从老火车站出来步行到国家清真寺的各种街景这张街角照 可以感觉出吉隆坡并不大的市区不远处就可以看见吉隆坡塔和双子星的侧面当然 大马高质量的清澈空气也是助力要是放在帝都 估计前景的高架都看不清了向日葵色板官方要一起努力 保护环境哇下图里面神奇的HOP ON HOP OFF 禾牧没有上车 经过清真寺路口的时候偶遇抓拍但是知道它的路线几乎把所有吉隆坡的市区景点一线打尽时间不多且不爱走路的孩纸们可以考虑终于走进清真寺啦 呵呵呵 其实就一个大路口 是我贪玩走得慢国家清真寺局部图当地人对禾牧很热情哇 发现我在拍他们不敢太靠近很捉急他们主动打招呼还问我从哪里来不过禾牧奇怪滴是不管走到哪儿 哪怕是国内某些地方都会被人问韩国人 日本人 甚至台湾人最后才是中国人真的长得有这么OMG~~~阳光正好于是一切都是好的不同角度 各种侧面([]
我在黑社会的日子之系列一 出国之前的半个月左右时间, 我过的很好,因为有人陪着.如果可以,我希望时间能永远定格在那一段…… 走的那天是2008年6月16号,一辈子都不会忘记的一个日子. 在机场等待登机的那段时间里,打了两个电话给两个比较重要的人,然后,手机停机,跟了我一年多的电话就此殉职.然后办理登机手续,一切顺利, 北京时间21点左右,我登上了埃塞俄比亚航班ET605,找到自己的座位后,安静地等待飞机的起飞. 起飞时间是21点15分,结果到了21点30分了,飞机还没动弹,正纳闷呢,往窗外一看,就明白了,北京不知什么时候开始下起了小雨,影响了飞机的正常起飞,等啊等啊等,最后快到23点的时候,雨终于小了很多,飞机慢慢地晃动它庞大的躯体,准备起飞了……. 23点09分,一段急速滑行后,飞机升空.我心里默念,再见北京,再见中国,再见亚洲,再见北半球…… 飞机上乘客很少,座位空了近四分之三, 并且基本上都是黑人.几个黑人空姐长的按照当地的准应该是不错,向日葵视频色板APP官网还算周到,就是有一点不好-----不笑.可能在她们国家没专门训练过.我想在中国,空姐如果不微笑着向日葵视频色板APP官网,饭碗都可能丢了.,, 有个空姐抱着一大堆报纸,挨个问有看报的没,到我身边的时候,她问我”Chinese?” 我说”Yes, Chinese”, 结果她随手就扔给我一本<<北京青年报>>,说实话,当时心里还有一点点遗憾,想如果是英语的报纸,我还能练练英语阅读……. 呵呵,自己掌嘴~ 值得一提的是飞机上的食物,特别的丰富,有牛肉和鱼肉,奶酪,蔬菜,饼干面包,饮料,各种调料。飞行的途中一共吃了三顿饭,每次该吃饭的时候我都在睡觉,都是空姐轻轻地把我碰醒,然后提醒我该进餐了。前两顿我要的饮料是可乐,菠萝汁,芬达,后来想来点不一样的,就随口问空姐有没有wine? 空姐说yes,然后就递我一瓶白酒,我才意识到其实我想要的不是wine,而是西方人喝的葡萄酒之类的,于是,我指着推车上一个瓶子问what’s this ? 空姐告诉我说那是 威士忌,我心想,正好尝一尝吧,于是,我说,a little.空姐就给我倒了小半杯,第一次喝传说中的威士忌,感觉不咋地,含在嘴里的感觉像可乐,咽下去的感觉又像掺了水的白酒,没意思。 飞机在飞行途中一共停了三次,分别在印度首都新德里,埃塞俄比亚首都亚的斯亚贝巴,还有加蓬。值得一提的是,下了北京出发的飞机,我就打听怎么转机,工作人员指着一个巴士叫我上去,我一看,刚才跟我一个飞机的人几乎都在上面,看来大家都是一路的。在巴士启动前,我结识了一个中国小伙,是我主动打的招呼。我凑到他跟前说:您是中国人吗?小伙不太热情,回答说是,我一听是中国人就乐了,异国他乡的遇到一个中国人不容易啊,尽管他不怎么热情,估计是长年流浪在外早就麻木了。我又问了他几个问,得知小伙是去赤道几内亚的,公司总部在大连,他已经在国外工作三年了。我问他,飞机在北京的时候就已经晚起飞两个来小时了,那转飞机还来的及吗?因为正常的情况下需要在这里等两个半小时,也就是说还留给我半个小时的时间办理转机手续,还要安检什么的。而现在的我刚上转机前的巴士,看样子巴士还要开上一段时间,而且此时巴士还没启动。。。小伙说,应该能赶趟,这个巴士不会开太长时间的,结果他话音还没落,巴士就启动了,结果最滑稽的场面就出现了,巴士充其量也就开了十秒钟吧,一点不夸张,就在一个门口停下了,所有人都往下走,我下车一看,刚才下的飞机就停在离我20米不到的地方。开始我还以为惊讶的不止我一个,结果环视一圈,发现大伙都若无其事习以为常地往里走。你说这十来步的距离直接走过来不就完了,至于上个巴士并且等上几分钟等所有人都上来了再启动然后没等一档换二档呢目的地就到了,至于吗?看工作人员以及乘客的表情就知道,还真至于。 在亚的斯亚贝巴的安检挺正规,甚至是过于正规,每个人都要解下腰带,脱下鞋,一屋的臭脚味我就不多说啥了。 飞机飞到加蓬又停了,我怀疑真实的情况是不是像郭得刚先生相声里说的那样,飞机没油了,停下来加油。 再次起飞是一个小时之后,我旁边上来一个特别像科比的黑人,以至于我兴奋了好一阵子,而且更让我兴奋的是科比的旁边坐着一个酷似乔丹的人,莫不是NBA包专机去非洲慈善比赛?然后正好空了一个座被我买到了?呵呵,再次自我掌嘴。 在一万多米的高空透过飞机的窗户往外看,只能看到像雾一样的云彩,那种俯视云层的感觉真的不错,飞机低空飞行的时候看下面,除了大片大片的海洋就是大片大片的森林,给人的感觉就是这地方怎么这么原始。零星地能看到几户人家,周围连一条象样的路都没有,都是泥泞的草地,真纳闷平时他们怎么出行。 又飞了一个多小时吧,机场结识的那个中国小伙指着窗外对我说:看,这就是你要去的城市——Douala(杜阿拉),我望着这片房屋稍微密集一些的土地惊讶地问他:这也叫城市???他平静地说:对,这就叫城市,而且,这里还是西非一带的经济中心。我无语了。。。 北京时间大约21点,当地时间大约14点,我下了飞机,算是真正意义上来到了这个我即将生活两年的地方。我在黑社会的日子之系列二 先简单介绍一下这边跟我一起吃住的几个中国人。 季经理,我的顶头上司,四十多岁,特豪爽特大气的一个人,一看就是那种不拘小节,眼光长远的人,他跟我说过一句话给我印象最深刻,他说:一定要亲手把我带出来。我相信他,也相信自己;大刚,三十一岁,有女朋友,未婚,可以说是我工作的模范前辈,因为我所要做的就是以他为模版,尽管他到喀麦隆的时间也不长,才两个月,但工作套路已经基本掌握,何况人家来之前就有相关的工作经验,再上手也容易得多,他人不错,我什么不懂就问他,他也不厌其烦地告诉我,处处尽显大哥风范,好人一个,一个好人;廖哥,三十三岁的已婚四川男人,还好家不在震区。简单跟他说几句话就能看出他是一个特朴实特诚恳特亲切特居家爱家的人,跟我是室友,向日葵色板官方有一个共同点,就是都特别怕热,热一点都受不了,基本上房间不开空调我俩就都睡不着觉,所以每天都开整晚的空调,宁可冷点也不让自己热着,尽管向日葵色板官方也知道空调吹多了不好,但没办法,这里又闷又热,呆着呆着汗就自己留下来,所以,管不了那么多了,晚上尽情地吹,白天无奈地晒;金哥,四十多岁的在我眼中比较成功的男人,一看就是特别精明的人,什么事都能办明白,并且基本什么都懂,好象在北京买了房子,也是好人一个。 刚到喀麦隆的前几天,倒时差,挺有意思的,总感觉这里白天跟晚上都特别的长,下午五六点钟的时候就困,因为有7个小时的时差,下午五六点钟正是北京时间凌晨一两点钟也就是我的准睡觉时间,而我这边却是艳阳高照,有种包宿后的疲倦感。这边晚上是家那边的后半夜,所以晚上7。8点钟的时候就困的睁不开眼睛了。前天晚上跟他们唠嗑,唠了很长时间,我当时感觉差不多能有11点左右了,结果一看表就傻了,才8点多,离这边通常的睡觉时间11点多还早呢。 我工作的地方是一个卖场,卖家具。我初来乍到,什么都不懂,所以每天的任务就是跟在大刚屁股后面转,学习他怎么跟员工交流,怎么跟客户交流,怎么谈价钱,怎么跟讲法语的当地黑人讲英语。平时的顾客不多,少的时候三,四个,多的时候十来个,季经理说:不用多,每天要是能卖出三套家具,总部的老板就能天天坐飞机来非洲玩了,可见利润有多大。。。 没有顾客的时候就呆着,无聊至极地呆着。几个黑人员工总会凑到一块聊天,当然讲的是法语,我一句听不懂。我自己呆着实在没意思了,就过去跟他们没话找话地说话,用英语。通常的情况是,我说一堆他们都能听懂,一到他们说话,我就傻眼了,口音那叫不是一般两般的重,单纯口音重我就不说啥了,谁叫自己听力不咋好呢,关键是他们说英语经常搀杂着我一句不懂的法语,舌头能卷好几个圈,要么就是吞音,一句话没听清几个词就被他们吞肚子里去了,奶奶个腿的。一到他们说话我又听不懂的时候,我心里就特想过去踹他们两脚,让他们好好说话。 住的地方离卖场约十公里远,每天都由黑人司机哈桑接送,经理托人在国内带了几本磁带,基本上都是怀旧的,有不少我都没听过。新一点的也有,比如,《月亮之上》,呵呵,说到这个《月亮之上》我自己都忍不住笑了,以前在学校的时候就特烦这歌,感觉特俗,但现在向日葵色板官方居然在每天上下班的车上高分贝地放着《月亮之上》,歌声悠扬而久远地回荡在非洲一角的公路上,车外面是典型的非洲生活的缩影,黑,脏,破,乱,到处都是头顶着东西的黑人,呵呵,那场面不是一般的壮观与滑稽啊。 大刚说向日葵色板官方住的地方能算是一个比较老的富人区了,这里一般的住宅都是二层小楼,有高墙围绕,有狗看门,有所谓的保安巡逻,所以安全方面应该没什么问。公司在这边雇了一个黑人女保姆给向日葵色板官方做饭,手艺还行,做的都是中国菜,听说做法都是廖哥,金哥他们教的。早餐有点奇怪,一碗煮鸡蛋的清水,泡三个煮鸡蛋,吃的时候放四小块白糖。午餐在卖场吃经理回家带的盒饭,晚饭向日葵色板官方五个又坐在一起,个个光着膀子,穿着短裤,趿拉着拖鞋,边看唯一的一个中文频道中央四边吃饭,能有四五个菜,土豆茄子豆角鸡蛋西红柿萝卜辣椒香肠猪肉牛肉中的四五个,营养上还不错,但每天都翻来覆去的吃两年,估计吃到最后也能吃吐了。 我在黑社会的日子之系列三 走之前在网上了解到,杜阿拉的物价惊人,人均消费水平排全球第27位,在台北和洛杉矶前面,当时想,照这形式,我赚那点钱也不够自己花的啊,网上说这边吃一顿饭三个菜三瓶啤酒要三百多人民币, 一袋饼干要三四十,在北京的时候又听说这里吃饺子三块钱一个,苹果七块钱一个,于是就感慨了,他奶奶的,还让不让人活了? 到了这里以后发现,物价确实高,比如说饮料和啤酒,都是八块多人民币一瓶,稍微好一点的面包要八块多钱一个,5号电池很贵,将近十块钱一节.但也不是什么物价都高的离谱,比如衣服鞋什么的都跟国内价格差不多,今天我跑到一个体育用品专卖店(我也挺惊讶的,这破地方居然还有体育用品专卖店)买了一顶ADIDAS的帽子,花了6000,折合人民币正好96(人民币和当地的非洲法郎的兑换比率为1:62.5),比国内还便宜点。至于自己赚那点钱够不够花也不愁,因为所有的日常花销公司都给报销,有时中午经理有事不能回去给我和大刚带饭,我们就叫司机开车送向日葵色板官方去附近的面包店买面包,估计油钱都不比面包钱少多少。 自打来到杜阿拉,我的手机基本上没发挥过手机的作用,几乎就没响过,没有任何电话和短信,以前在国内每个月都得发500多条的短信,打100多块钱的电话,这下手机冷不丁地安静下来还真有点不适应,有时候我就盯着自己的手机,想:如果你能响一声,或者震动一下,该多好……这里用手机打电话特别贵,市话都50F/分,将近人民币的一块钱。手机打国际长途跟发国际短信一个价,都是300F,相当于人民币的四块多,黑,实在是黑! 当地的钱太不值钱,以至于最大面值的货币是10000,我每天兜里揣7~8万块钱都没啥感觉,其实这样说也不对,因为还有点感觉,就是感觉兜了揣了一堆纸,一堆很值钱的纸。以前上学的时候,老师总说:钱,只是一种符号,一种货币符号,当时能够明白是这个道理,但是体会不到,现在是真真切切地体会到了,很SPECIAL 的感觉,有意思。 当地黑人大多数是很友好的,我刚到的几天没怎么意识到,因为总有人盯着你看,直钩钩地看,看到你心里发毛,当时的感觉就是他们好象有什么企图,比如抢个劫啥的。过后一想其实可以理解:你想啊,这么小个地方,远离喧嚣闹市,周围都是同种人,最起码是同种肤色,平时没事干就坐马路边上比一比看谁更黑一点,正比着呢,突然就看到这么一个或者几个跟他们肤色不同长相又大不一样的人从他们面前走过,能不好奇地多看两眼吗? 接着说他们的友好。比如陌生人之间会互相问好,跟外国人更会主动打招呼。跟谁都崩祝喝(你好),要么就洒瓦(你好),或者卖喝西(谢谢),有的甚至会说中文,在路上碰到向日葵色板官方几个中国人,都主动打招呼,说:尼浩(你好),每每这时向日葵色板官方都热情地回应,彼此微笑致意。特别是黑人小孩,老远看你过来,就开始争先恐后地喊:尼浩,尼浩。看到向日葵色板官方能听懂并且回复说你好,小孩们就乐得屁颠屁颠的,跟过年似的。 。。。。。有意境没???发了半天帖子我也没给自己找个头,我去找头去,一会儿回来当年那谁跟我说,你看,非洲人还是很失常的嘛,大花裤衩。。。我在黑社会的日子之系列四 很多人都问我在这里具体的工作是什么,其实客观地说,没有什么具体的工作,只能说主要干什么,因为这边人手少,平时什么都得顾及,力所能及的小事也都做。我主要是当经理的翻译,以及兼任一份现金会计的工作,这俩活都不太好干。 先说翻译,我只做经理的口译,说白了,就是经理说完几句话一停顿,我就开始翻。以前从来没有过口译的翻译经验,现在刚一毕业就直接给人家当口译,只能说胆子不小,至于翻译质量,自我感觉还凑合,咱不求翻译的句子有多幽雅,语法有多正确,咱只求能基本上翻译出人家说的话,表达的意思,就哦了。所以,我基本上都是采用意译,见笑了,呵呵。经理是一个特别喜欢说话的人,基本上跟他在一起的人都没什么说话的机会,话都让他一个人说了。这句话的言外之意是我的翻译量不小。有时候就怕经理从他办公室出来,因为他一出来就说话,一说话我就得给他翻,所以闲着没事的时候我就一个人在那祈祷,比如祈祷经理在办公室睡着了之类的。然而,这都不算翻译的真正困难所在,真正的困难在于当地黑人说完一句两句甚至一大堆句,我要翻译给经理听。这就太难为我了,之前提到过当地人口音的问,这里就不多说了,总之,很难,只能慢慢适应。有一次当地电视台来公司洽谈一个给公司做宣传广告,署合同的事,我怎么也听不懂电视台那个负责人的意思,最后叫来大刚,我俩一起听,才算基本上弄明白怎么回事,这种例子屡见不鲜。 再说说现金会计那活。简单地说,就是经理把公司保险柜的钥匙交给了我,平时公司进帐出帐都得经过我,当然,出了什么差错也找我。各种发票,单据,借条,收据,看得我直迷糊。经理说:这些东西对别人来说,是普通的纸,但对你来说,就是钱,所以,每一张都得统计好,保管好。现在我每天随身携带的,除了护照,相机和几万块钱(当地不值钱的钱,备用的),就是保险柜钥匙了。 除了翻译和现金会计这俩活,其他都是零碎的,比如跟卡车回仓库运货,比如经理要出国给他定个飞机票,比如帮忙抬个沙发搬个茶几,再比如一个人的时候听一听出国之前在学校附近网吧下载到MP3里的歌,又比如闲着的时候带着一种强烈的民族自豪感跟他们黑人炫耀一下咱们中国有多么多么好,诸如此类,等等等等。 PS 工作时间为早八点半到晚五点半,一星期上六天班,周日休息。再说说周日。。。 一星期内只有周日能睡个懒觉,但还不能睡到自然醒,因为大家要一起吃早餐,别不理解,人家金哥给你做好放桌上了你都不早点起来吃有点说不过去(保姆周日休息)。吃过一日三餐之翻来覆去早餐之后,大家一起看会中央四。10点多的时候,就到了一星期内比较重要的时候了,集体出去打电话。不知道原由的该问了:为啥要集体出去打电话,为啥每星期打一次,平时不能打吗?答案是:不能,集体出去打电话是出于安全考虑(至于吗?至于,以后再具体解释),每星期打一次是出于便宜考虑,向日葵色板官方周日打电话的地方是一个距离住处步行要十五分钟的路边电话超市,这个时间这个地点打国际长途便宜,约六毛钱一分钟。在其他时间其他地点打国际长途将近两块钱一分钟。这个电话超市很小也很破,里面就四部电话,我们经常一去就四个人,所以有时碰到电话被人占用的情况还得等着。电话的信号也不是很好,有点杂音,而且经常莫名其妙地没了信号,于是就得重新打。有一点跟国内不同,就是只要你拨了一个号,不管通没通,都按通了收费,我第一次打不知道这情况,打一遍听到的是占线的嘀嘀声,就给挂了再试,结果还是占线,就这样翻来覆去拨了将近十次才打通,结帐的时候就傻眼了,每次占线都收我六毛钱,也就是说我为占线的电话花了将近六块钱,黑不? 打完电话就回去,他们看电视,我就用电脑看个电影啥的(走之前特意下载了几十部电影),然后一两点钟的时候大家一起做饭。我不会做,就跟在家里似的,只能打个零杂跑个腿啥的,吃完饭洗碗也是我的专利,这一点跟在家里还是一样,没办法,不会做饭的人没有资格提不洗碗的不合理要求。 就这样到了四,五点钟,大家换了衣服,去住处附近一个职业学校打篮球。这段时间正值学校放假,听说放了两个多月,所以每次去都没几个人,只有几个十四五岁的男孩子早早地在篮球架那等着向日葵色板官方几个拿着篮球的中国人的到来。他们都喜欢打篮球,只是他们自己没有球,应该是买不起,不是买不到,因为前面说了,这里有体育用品专卖店。每次都跟他们分伙打,有时候是随机分,有时候是按国籍分,也就是向日葵色板官方几个中国人一伙,他们几个喀麦隆人一伙。每次一按国籍分我就有个滑稽的想法,总感觉这也算是一种使命,咱也算是代表国家出战,也算是国家队了,呵呵。别看他们一个个年纪不大,身体都高大强壮着呢,胳膊特别长,手也长,一个个跟长臂猿似的,吓人。再就是指甲长,我打了两次球,胳膊就被他们挠破了两次,大刚也被挠过。更值得一提的是:黑人身上都有一种气味,很难闻,甚至有点熏人。打篮球一出汗,气味就更大了,所以一场比赛下来咱们中国队要是能赢那是相当不容易了,意志跟体质的考验啊,相当之严峻。 到了晚上,他们看电视或者打扑克,我继续看我的电影,十二点左右睡觉。我在黑社会的日子之系列五 我每天都随身携带着相机,碰到特色的东西就及时地拍下来,但也不是随时随地都能拍照,因为有的当地黑人忌讳被别人拍照,他们认为这是要向外界揭示他们生活贫困的一面,有时候在未经允许的情况下拍他们足以惹怒他们,给自己带来麻烦,甚至能引发危险。所以,我每次拍照前都尽量征求一下对方的意见,一般都能欣然答应,也有不让拍的,那就真的不能拍了。还有很多是我在卖场里隔着厚厚的玻璃远距离拍的,当然就不必征求对方的意见了。 这里治安还算不错,警察和宪兵随处可见,连维持秩序的交通警察都人人佩带着枪,据说都是上着子弹的,傲气十足,经常没事找事,其实就是想跟人要点钱。谁要是违反了交通规则被这些警察逮着,直接掏1000F(16 RMB)或者2000F(32 RMB),就OK了,废话一句不用说,彼此都心知肚明,利马放行。 别看杜阿拉地方不大,车还真是不少,世界上最好的车在这里能找到,世界上最破的车也能找到。卡车和小面包车中十辆有八辆是奔驰,轿车中以丰田居多,向日葵色板官方上下班坐的车就是丰田,经理或者司机哈桑开,我跟大刚坐。大街上到处都是载满人和货物的黄色的小面包车,都是跑长途的,破的不行。这儿掉一大块漆,那凹进去一大片,到处锈迹斑斑,就像要散架子一样,再一看车前面的牌子,就傻眼了,奔驰! 还有不计其数的摩托车,都是当出租车用,几乎没有谁闲着没事骑着摩托到处乱逛的。这里的出租车也跟别的地方有很大的不同,用向日葵色板官方的话说,可以拼客,也就是说一辆车可以拉上四五个完全不相干的人,去完全不相干的地方。乘客都不以为然。出租车很便宜,都不按里程记价,因为根本就没有记价器,上车告诉司机去哪,近的要200F(三块多人民币),远一点的300F(不到五块钱)。我没坐过,一是不安全,二是怕熏着。 到目前位置,我还没见到骑自行车的,应该是没有,不进口。当然,更没有公交车。 这里的公路很窄,并排也就能容下三辆车。车又多,再加上没有红绿灯,直接后果是严重堵车,特别是上下班的高峰期,堵车的情形几乎不比北京强多少。向日葵色板官方总是提前20分钟上班和下班来避开高峰期。有一次下班,车都开出一半路程了,突然接到卖场保安的电话,说经理办公室的空调忘关了,向日葵色板官方又只好往回返,这下就坏了菜了,粗略算了一下,平时向日葵色板官方上下班单程坐车要20分钟左右,结果那天向日葵色板官方回到公司关了空调再回到住处,前后花了将近两个小时,幸好坐在舒服的车里吹着空调听着歌,否则人真的能崩溃。 每次一堵车,头上顶着小商品的大人小孩就会凑到车跟前,问你买不买他们头顶上的东西.特别是小孩,有时候可怜巴巴地望着你,让你不由得产生一种不买他东西都不太忍心的想法. 很是有意思. 我在黑社会的日子之系列六 Sometimes…… 有时候,从黑人员工身边路过,见他们在唠嗑,叽里咕噜的说着法语,我就问他们:What are you 嘟囔ing about? 每当这时他们就一脸的困惑,我从来都不解释这句话啥意思,决定让他们永远地困惑下去。 有时候,跟男黑人员工一起讨论点中西文化风俗差异的问,比如宗教信仰.我跟迪万说,在中国,大多数人都不信仰宗教,都不相信有上帝的存在,但很多人都迷信,因此相信有鬼的存在.他听了眼睛睁的老大,感觉太不可思议了,怎么能不信仰宗教呢?怎么能不相信上帝呢?他问我没有上帝的话,最初的人是怎么来的呢?世界上的万物是怎么出现的呢?我说那是进化的结果,什么东西都是进化的结果,包括人….不管我怎么说,他就是不同意.我清楚地知道对于一个不信仰宗教的人来说,能够理解信仰宗教的人为什么信仰宗教;但是反过来,叫一个从小就有宗教信仰的人去理解其他不信仰宗教的人为什么不信仰宗教,是很难的事情. 最后,我开玩笑地问他Can you forgive me that I don’t believe in God? 他笑着说Yes. 有时候,跟女员工赛微或者格拉第斯唠嗑.赛微说她希望自己是一个女博士,因为她感觉博士特荣耀特神气.我告诉她,在中国有一种说法.说的是世界上有三种人;男人,女人和女博士,然后解释给她这种说法的含义.我以为她听了后会很惊讶,结果人家一点不惊讶,她说她虽然没听过三种人的说法,但她能完全理解这种说法的含义.就这样,她的不惊讶反而引发了我的惊讶……又低估人家了,罪过…… 有时候,我在卖场学点法语单词,汉语注的发音自己总是不能正确地掌握语调,于是就请黑人员工领我读几遍。然而就这么几个人,彼此间的发音都不一样,各有各的口音,我就不管那些了,逮着谁跟谁学,每次我都问他们:我说这个词的时候你能不能听懂,直到他们说能了,这个词就PASS。书里有一页是介绍各种消极感叹词的,比如;倒霉,糟糕,见鬼,混蛋,***。于是我就问黑人员工YUGO,我说这些词里你们用的最多的是哪个词?YUGO看了半天,告诉我,是Merde(***),挺实用的,没记错的话应该是我记得最快的一个词.汉语这样发音妹喝的(“喝”轻读),来,大家一起跟我读妹----喝-----的! 当然了,要想让他们乐此不疲地给我领读法语单词,必须想点办法给点回报,最实惠的莫过于教他们汉语了,他们也非常乐意学。我更乐意教,就当弘扬中国文化了。难一点的他们记不住,就教点简单的,比如你好,再见,谢谢,不用谢,加油,哦了,等等等等。有一天早晨,司机哈桑接我和大刚上班。路上堵车,哈桑就把手刹车一拉,伸了个懒腰,打了个哈欠,然后就冒出来一句:我困了!特准的汉语,把我和大刚都整一愣,随后哈桑自己也乐了,不知道这家伙跟谁学的。。。我在黑社会的日子之系列7 有些事情,只有当你真正身临其境的时候,才能理解,比如非洲人民生活的艰难程度。由于科技不发达,工业太落后,以至于大到飞机轮船汽车机电设备小到桌椅板凳牙刷奶瓶都需要进口,大部分商品的物价因此会翻上好几翻,个别当地产的作物比如香蕉菠萝芒果木瓜之类的相比之下算是相当便宜了,那还跟中国的价格差不多。另一方面,人们的收入实在有限,生活在城市里的差不多能找到一份工作,月薪 90000F(人民币不到1500)那算相当不错了,一般的也就40000F~50000F,折合人民币640~800。很多人赚的钱都不够一个月生活必需品的花销,如果开支当天因故不能正常给员工发工资,他们可能一天都吃不上饭,一点没夸张。有一次跟我的同事迪万(此人是喀麦隆最好的大学毕业的,大学名称我忘了)聊天,向日葵色板官方说到了电视,他告诉我,如果他想买电视,那就得攒上一年多的钱,还不一定够。我问:那汽车呢?他说:我都没想过也不敢想。我又问:房子呢?他说:太遥远了。。。。。。 这还只是生活在城市里的人,对于生活在下面小城镇农村的人来说,情况就更遭了。他们仅有的生活来源可能就是靠卖点自家产的作物或者倒卖点小商品然后都一个模式地放在筐之类的东西里顶在头上去城市里卖,当天的收入可能就够一天的饭钱,生意不好就等着饿肚子吧。 他们吃饭也不跟我们似的一日三餐分得特别明白,基本上一天一顿正餐,上午或者中午吃,到晚上饿了的话就随便吃一口,省钱。当然,有钱人除外。我看过他们吃的正餐,并拍了照片。一根法式长面包,硬得硌牙,一小块鱼或者牛肉,一盘不知道拿什么拌的豆,看着都没食欲,人家却吃得津津有味。 当地的酒度数都小,啤酒都是三点几度或者四点几度,但是很纯,喝起来跟国内十一度的啤酒差不多。葡萄酒就更不用说了,在哪都一样,没啥度数,跟可乐似的。晚饭的时候,向日葵色板官方几个经常是吃大米饭各自就着一大杯葡萄酒,想想都滑稽。我曾经跟我的黑人同事讨论过酒的问,我跟他们说,在中国,向日葵色板官方都喝五,六十度的白酒,喝一杯都没啥感觉,他们一听都傻眼了,因为白酒他们听说过,但是没想到白酒的度数这么大,太incredible 了。 之前听说这里饺子三块钱一个,到这后听吃过当地饺子的廖哥说,那都是便宜的,这里的饺子是300F一个,折合人民币四块八!之前听说的一顿饭三瓶啤酒三个菜要三百多的情况也被我验证了。前两天国内公司的一个经理去尼日利亚,路过喀麦隆,晚上一起出去吃饭。向日葵色板官方去的是一家江西人开的饭店,叫银龙餐厅,名字很大气。据说这个餐厅在当地也算是一个老字号了,生意特别好,价钱合理,饭菜可口。我还以为能有多好呢,不说相当于国内四星五星也得是两星三星啊,结果进去一看,还真能算五星级的:餐厅设备一星,向日葵视频色板APP官网质量一星,饭菜对口程度一星,卫生状况一星,再就是黑人女向日葵视频色板APP官网员长相勉强算一星,加一块正好五星。餐厅墙壁没粉刷,窗户漏风,破桌子破椅子,就跟国内汽车站火车站旁边的小餐馆差不多。那天我们六个人要了七个菜,喝了17瓶啤酒,共花了50800F,相当于人民币 812元,黑不? 我在黑社会的日子之系列8 我个人最喜欢吃的肉是鸡肉,没想到来喀麦隆将近一个月的时间,第一次吃上鸡肉居然是在当地的一个赌场里。 有必要先简单说明一下时间地点人物,否则会有一大批人质问我:不学好去那地方干什么? 上周六下班以后,经理开车拉着我们几个去一个北京饭店吃饭,具体的情况就不描述了,总之跟上次吃饭的情况差不多,环境能好一点,价钱特别贵。唯一需要强调的一点是,这个响当当的北京饭店里,老鼠居然特别多,我就亲眼看见地上和屋顶上各有一只,所以饭吃得有些提心吊胆,生怕屋顶上的老鼠掉向日葵色板官方桌上。吃过饭就没事了,于是决定一起去赌场看看,长这么大还没去过真正意义上的赌场呢,哪怕只是看看,也算长长见识了。于是就去了。。。 喀麦隆的赌场很多,我们去的那个就在当地繁华街道的路边上。先过一个大铁门,然后有几个身强体壮的黑人把着门,我还以为需要出示什么证件,结果什么都不用,直接进。里面不算大,能容纳一百多人。向日葵色板官方进去的时候大约有80多人,而且大部分都是中国南方人。赌场里面有八个大的赌桌,一半是轮盘赌局,一半是扑克牌局,还有几个老虎机。每个赌桌都安排三个向日葵视频色板APP官网员,一个坐在赌桌的最边上,虎视眈眈地监督,防止有人作弊。一个负责发牌,还有一个负责洗牌,收钱。再就是几个黑人向日葵视频色板APP官网员到处晃悠,发个酒水饮料之类的。 我站在赌桌旁边看了半天也没看太明白赌博的规则,很复杂。但有一点看明白了,就是这些赌钱的人输钱如流水一般,并且十个人当中最少有八个人是输的,收钱那个都忙的手忙脚乱。我旁边那个中国人,一根筋似的专门压一个区,结果几分钟的工夫就输了十万多非洲法郎,折合人民币两千左右。 廖哥手痒了,尽管还不太会玩,于是从我这借了四万(RMB:640),我说你最好是先看看,掌握套路了再上,他说没事,我试试,于是就真试去了,我就站他跟前看着他试试。 结果这一试就把钱全给试进去了,最可气的是廖哥旁边那个中国人,他自己说是抚顺的,从一开始就摆出一副老江湖的样子,口若悬河地给廖哥讲:你应该什么时候下注,你应该在哪个区下注,你应该怎么观察发牌人的表情,你应该跟紧哪个点儿横的人,你应该咋地咋地。。。开始我还以为这小子有多赌神呢,心想今天算是遇到高人了,咱也能长长见识,结果人家从一开始就输,各种输。你说你输就输吧,至少应该谦虚地说几句委婉的话比如今天手气实在不佳之类的给自己找个台阶下,结果人家倒好,还继续大言不惭地给廖哥传授经验,我看到廖哥都无奈的笑了,我也不好说什么,只好无奈了地离开了。 来到巴台前,我找了个空坐,要了一杯加冰的免费可乐,坐那悠闲地看电视。心想:今天真是赚了,没赌博没往里面白白扔钱不说,还免费喝到了外面卖的挺老贵的可乐。正想着,那边上来了免费的自助餐,谁饿了就随便过去挑着吃,忙着输钱的干脆简单挑点食物拿到赌桌上边赌边吃。我一点不饿,但为了满足一下对赌场里自助餐的好奇心以及考虑到应该给赌场老板一点面子,便拿上餐盘简单地挑了点面包,羊肉串,烤鸡翅(点了不是?)木瓜,菠萝,还有点蔬菜沙拉。 又呆了一会,没啥意思,时间已到晚上十一点,于是打道回府。 赌场也不过如此,见识已经长完,以后不去了。我在黑社会的日子之系列9 经理规定,每天早上九点都要开一个晨会,员工轮流主持,目的是提高大家的工作积极性。每次负责的人都说上几句话,回顾一下昨天,放眼一下今天,再展望一下明天,等等等等,也就是走一下形式。话都总结差不多了后, 大伙站成一圈,把各自的左手搭在左边人的肩膀上,同时右手握紧,伸出大拇指,左边的人握住右边人的大拇指,并伸出自己的大拇指供下一个人握,以此类推地往上摞(我说明白没?),姿势都摆好后,主持人大喊一声:One team, one dream!!!,然后大伙一起扯着嗓子喊:加油!(汉语版的),再然后一起鼓掌并解散。我发现每次黑人员工喊完加油都特兴奋,就跟那什么了似的。 最近是生意的淡季,每天都没有几个顾客,所以大伙都闲得不行,一个个没精打采的,上午还都能没事找事地给自己找点事做,下午干脆就凑一块唠唠嗑,扯扯淡。每次大刚看到女员工赛微在那比比划划地跟别人唠嗑,就直接问她,又臭美呢啊?赛微就一脸迷惑地问我大刚说的话啥意思,我就说,他夸你呢,她当然不信,我也不过多解释。我则经常问赛微:你又在那白话啥呢?赛微就去问大刚啥意思,大刚也总敷衍地回答:夸你呢! 经常有卖各种当地水果的人从卖场前面路过,向日葵色板官方就经常买一些一起吃,我发现,只要是水果,他们就说delicious,要么就very good。客观地说,当地的水果还真不咋地,味道都怪怪的。印象最深的一次是在他们黑人员工的推荐下,我跟大刚买了几个小苹果大小的绿的水果,闻起来像茄子,我问他们是不是茄子,他们都说不是,还都说特别的sweet,我怀着极大的好奇心吃了一口,结果发现,完完全全就是没发育好的生茄子,sweet个6啊,一点好吃的滋味没有。我就纳闷了,他们一个个都吃得那么津津有味。 说到这想起个插曲,我有个习惯,只要是没吃过的东西,第一次吃之前都闻一下,然后再吃,没想到这么简单的习惯性动作还是当地人所忌讳的,有一次我闻的时候被赛微看见了,她有点不太高兴地问我:Hey! Andrew! What are you doing ? how can you smell it ? 我马上意识到人家可能忌讳这个,于是赶紧解释,我说这是我吃东西的习惯,都多少年了。她听了还是不理解,我只好说:好吧,我下不为例。 我在黑社会的日子之系列10 我自己带的电脑是费了很大的周折才连上线的,在那之前跟我在网上说过话的人都知道之前我上一次网有多不容易,有多狼狈。只能是趁中午经理回去给向日葵色板官方带饭那一小会的工夫上一小会,正所谓来也匆匆去也匆匆。那一小会工夫对我来说特别的珍贵,我会争分夺秒地回复留言,上传照片,写篇日志,根本就顾不上浏览向日葵视频黄色视频。记得当时正值NBA总决赛的最后几场,我是干着急看不到啊,最后总冠军都决出一个多星期了我这边还正闭塞地琢磨着湖人是不是又扳回一场了。 后来改革开放的春风吹到了我这——联系上一家网络公司的人,结果人家来了,带着一个发票,我一看就傻眼了,如果请人家带着一根网线一个hub来并且给你连好电脑,什么都给你弄利索了,你得付人家220,000F,也就是人民币的3520,不是一般的黑啊,黑到家了都。向日葵色板官方委婉地谢绝了那个人,说向日葵色板官方再考虑一下然后联系你,其实当时我的真实想法是:去你妈的,真以为老外的钱那么好赚呢啊? 后来向日葵色板官方去了一个卖配件的商店,决定先把必要的东西买齐全了然后自己鼓捣鼓捣看能不能给安上,实在不行再找人。来之前我自己带了十米的网线居然都不够长,只好在这买了一根20米的,人民币四块钱一米,这倒没啥,最让人憋气的是这里卖网线是不配带接口的,得另外花钱买,就那么一个小破接口四块钱一个,这还不算,光买接口还不行,自己不能把接口接到网线上,于是还得花钱请人家给接上,于是两个接口再要人民币16。又买了一个hub,花了240。试了半天向日葵色板官方自己也没弄明白这里蹩脚的电脑系统到底是怎么回事,只好找人来安,人家几分钟就搞定,我问黑人员工给人家多少钱合适,司机哈桑说,这人是我朋友,你给他2000(RMB32)就行了。还行,便宜多了。 就这样,花了很多钱,搭了很多工夫,终于连上了自己的电脑。 现在整个公司就两台电脑,经理一台我一台,那网速慢得叫一可以,说了一般人都不信,开一个网页得三分钟,还不一定能打开,下首歌最少半小时,《工夫熊猫》十分钟下载了百分之零点一。有时候需要查点什么东西,只能对着电脑干着急没办法,感觉自己就像一个残疾人,心有余而力不足。 头一次发现,人的意志可以通过上网体现出来,体质也可以通过上网锻炼出来。堵车的时候,过来的俩小伙,我问,能给你们拍个照片么,他们听了很高兴我在黑社会的日子之系列11 非洲雨季的时候,每天都下雨,特别是晚上,肯定会下,而且至少是一场,如果哪天没下雨,有的人就会感到很奇怪,比如我。每次下雨都不打雷不打闪,就那么干巴巴地下,劲劲儿地。这里基本上不存在小雨的概念,下就下大的,用倾盆大雨形容都不够火候,用倾缸大雨还差不多。刚到这里的那天晚上,我愣是被大雨声惊醒,长这么大还是头一次,以前连再大的雷声都惊不醒我。不夸张地说,这里雨季一个月的雨量足以顶上中国好几年。这也就是在非洲,原始森林的国度,别说各种叫不上名的树,就连草都一人多高,要是换作其他洲际国家,估计早就给冲跑了。 树多草多也就意味着蚊子多。刚来的几天没太在意,睡觉前蚊帐一放,大致检查一下,没啥漏洞就睡了,结果每天早上醒来都能在蚊帐里发现一只饱餐后的蚊子趴在蚊帐上不舍得离去。这的蚊子其实没有想象中的那么大,那么黑,跟祖国的蚊子差不多,唯一的区别就是他们可能携带着疟疾病毒,当然,只是可能,洁身自好的蚊子还是占大多数的,所以被干净的蚊子亲一口也没啥,至多发现了后就一掌给它们灭了,然后涂点风油精,过往不究。碰上不干净的也只能自认倒霉了,得了疟疾就得去医院,输一瓶液要人民币1000多,所以,谁都病不起。我体制好,而且坚持着体育锻炼,到目前为止还没生过病,同志们尽可放心。走之前我说过,我是健康地完整地去,我也要健康地完整地回,说到做到。 不光蚊子多,蚂蚁也多,非洲特有的小红蚂蚁,咬人,哪有甜的东西哪就肯定有这种蚂蚁。被这种蚂蚁咬过后的皮肤,会起一个像被蚊子叮过后的小包,一两天后恢复,而且,不留后遗症。 前一阵,经理买了两只鹦鹉,30000F,人民币480。什么也不会说,只会瞎叫,跟狗叫差不多,估计卖鹦鹉那人家里养狗。有时候向日葵色板官方在看电视,这俩家伙就在那学狗叫,实在让人心烦,于是向日葵色板官方就直接把他们拎出去,让他们跟给向日葵色板官方看家的狗对着叫,随便叫。其实这俩鹦鹉向日葵色板官方要是给培训好了,能相当厉害,最起码会三国语言:中,英,法。廖哥是四川人,若再能教两句四川话,那就真的牛了去了。 平时向日葵色板官方有空就对着俩鹦鹉喊:你好!Good morning! 洒哇!但它俩就是没反应,整得向日葵色板官方一个个早就没了耐心,奶奶个腿的,过一段时间要是再不会说人话,非给它俩炖了不可。我在黑社会的日子之系列12 相信知道这个世界上很多国家实行的是一夫多妻制的人不少,但能张口我在黑社会的日子之系列12 相信知道这个世界上很多国家实行的是一夫多妻制的人不少,但能张口晕死我了 这一贴难道字数多了 怎么发不上去?相信知道这个世界上很多国家实行的是一夫多妻制的人不少,但能张口相信知道这个世界上很多国家实行的是一夫多妻制的人不少,但能张口我在黑社会的日子之系列12 相信知道这个世界上很多国家实行的是一夫多妻制的人不少,但能张口我在黑社会的日子之系列13 不止N个人问过我同一个问:非洲的女的漂亮不?我也不止N遍地回答他们:一个比一个黑,一个比一个可趁(丑),大街上随便路过一个女的,袖子往上一撸,肱二头肌比我的都发达,看着都让人心惊胆战。 而且,十个女的当中至少有八个是大胖子,严重超重,一条腿的目测尺寸足有一尺八,相当于中国瘦一点的女孩的腰围。看她们上出租车特别有意思,左扭右扭费老大的劲才能挤进去,一屁股坐下,车都跟着一震,轮胎能瘪下去一截,车外面站着的,是另外几个准备上车的胖子。。。 据说,非洲的女子在结婚前基本上都不胖,体型属于正常范围也就是让人能接受的范围之内,一结婚生了孩子就完了,因为她们脑袋里基本上不存在坐月子的概念,今天刚把孩子生下来,明天就下地干活了,一点不注意保养,所以体型严重走样。关键是你体型走样,我也走样,大家都走样,也就不觉得走样了。正所谓:大家走样才是真的走样。 非洲男的当中胖子却不多,给人的感觉是他们身上除了肌肉就是肌肉,一点多余的脂肪都没有,都是稍微一锻炼就能出“块”的那种,不像欧美一个个肥头大耳一看就是营养过剩又不做运动不是大款就是火夫那种。卖场的黑人员工洒六,看着外表没啥特殊,也看不出哪比别人飙悍,但人家上衣一撩,就能震住几个我这样没怎么见过世面的——八块腹肌,块块分明,再看看自己练了多年还是那块只有我自己管那叫腹肌的一整块的肉,实在惭愧。 说到洒六,再多说两句,他特喜欢动作片,武打电影,特崇拜成龙,李小龙和李连杰。他问我会不会中国工夫, 我说我不会,他说我不信,中国人哪有不会武功的?我说你真聪明,向日葵色板官方中国人个个会武功,要不我教你两招儿?他说好啊好啊太好了。我说完就后悔了:金刚钻还没有呢,瓷器活就揽过来了。教他啥呢?我会个6啊?然后突然就想到了太极拳。具体的招数我一点不会,但两个人站一块推拿的那个动作我还是会的,而且我确信他肯定不会。于是,我叫他站我对面,两腿劈开,半蹲,伸出右手,跟我右手腕架在一块,然后向日葵色板官方就开始前后左右地推拿起来,洒六乐得估计都不知道自己姓啥了,以为自己学到了真正的中国工夫。我在心里又嘀咕了,接下来该咋办呢?大学体育课学的是排球和网球也没学太极拳啊。。。正下不来台呢,卖场来了一个顾客,我赶紧收住,语重心长地对他说:我下次再教你吧,你看,来客人了。。。他连声说好好好。 再以后洒六找我学中国工夫我都以各种忙的理由婉转拒绝,今天突然想起来,我不用总决绝他,还是有点东西可以传授的:大一军训的时候不是学了半个月的军体拳呢吗?虽然不能记清全部动作,但一招半式还是能做出来的,足以镇住他了,small case. 来,军体拳第一套:准备格斗!。。。。。。我在黑社会的日子之系列14 大约是两三年前的时候吧,我就曾设想过一个问:08年奥运会的时候,我的生活状态会是怎样的。 有两个极端的版本。乐观的和悲观的,说来听听。 乐观的版本:奥运会是零八年八月,那时我刚大学毕业一个月左右,在大连或者上海或者广州或者深圳之中的一个城市,找到了一份不错的工作,月薪四千甚至以上。白天上班也没啥事,喝着咖啡上着网浏览着国内外向日葵视频黄色视频,优哉游哉地混到下班。然后不爱跟一大群人一起挤公交车,干脆自己打车。在住的地方楼下饭店吃完晚饭,再跑到附近超市买点花生啤酒牛肉干烤鱼片之类的东西。回到自己租的公寓,打开空调,往沙发上一躺,手拿遥控器,开瓶啤酒,就着零食,开始看奥运。在各个频道间搜索与切换,通过电视的报道,从头去了解一个个以前根本就不认识但以后可能每个中国人都认识的中国制造的世界冠军,并表现的兴致勃勃。 悲观的版本:都大学毕业一个多月了还没找到工作,不是我看不上人家就是人家看不上我,典型的高不成低不就。白天奔波于各个大中小型招聘会,海投简历。晚上拖着疲惫不堪的双腿回到住的地方,一个60平不到的房子,还是跟以前就认识的几个哥们合租的。晚上8点多了还饿着肚子,没钱在外面吃饭,只好继续泡方便面,都吃一个月的方便面了,看着都想吐。屋里没有风扇更别说空调,只有一把两块五买的的纸扇子,边吃边使劲的扇风,不行!还是热,于是干脆把窗户打开,蚊子就随便进吧,顾不了那么多了。啤酒?太奢侈了,买不起。刚才吃面不是剩了半饭盒的汤吗?将就着喝吧,也挺有滋味的,就当是啤酒了。花生?挺贵的吧?那玩意挺沉的,太压称,一斤没有几个,不买,太不合算。不如吃前两天一咬牙一跺脚买的两斤路边卖的五香瓜子吧,那么大一堆够我吃好几天的呢。于是就嗑着瓜子,喝着方便面汤看起了奥运,兴致一样勃勃。 。。。。。。 当然,这两种情况都过于极端,纯属是我当年吃饱了撑的没事闲的胡思乱想。但至少我曾在脑海里隐约地勾勒出这样的情景,尽管不现实。 结果,两三年后的奥运会的时候,我却一个人来到了大洋彼岸的彼岸,通过一个法语的体育频道听着一句不懂的解说费着老大的劲看奥运,还得是下班以后,也就是北京时间的后半夜,换句话说,看不到直播。还得是人家给你转播什么你就老老实实地看什么。这就是现实,我不曾预料到也不可能预料到的现实,但话又说回来,这样的场景谁人能提前两三年勾勒得出? 重点不是强调我的抱怨,抱怨肯定有,毕竟奥运会都开到家门口了,自己却连直播都看不到。但抱怨不那么强烈,也不至于那么强烈。只是想表达一种认识,一种观点:有些东西是不可预知的,因为一切皆有可能。 佛曰:在你眼睛还未看到的地方,一定会有神迹出现。。。 看来,佛说的对。这就是一个国家首都的长途汽车站太鼓励了,变色了谢谢 谢谢这个我发的时候也切啊,老帖子了 杂货店老板,在这种店能买到真正的象牙,象骨,木雕之类的制品([]
“百感交集!”这是出发前,大家做出发感言时我说的话,没想到,五天的穿越,我才真正体会她的含意! 我来过,我走过,我体会过;我爱过,我恨过,可是我知道,在这条路上已经无法回头了。 雪山沟位于天山西部伊连哈比尔尕峰南麓,东距独库公路乔尔玛120公里,西距尼勒克80公里,北与乌苏古尔图镇接壤。两者之间有一条神秘的马道鲜为人知,在过去的岁月里它是南北双方马贼经常出没的地方,随着马贼被不断的打击,这条马道渐渐被人们忘记....... 这条线路是伊犁行者户外于2012年7月探明走穿,因其穿越难度仅次于狼塔C线,故而命名为:小狼C。 从知道这条活动的路线到我参加中间差不多有两个月的时间,其实我不曾犹豫,我只是没有准备好。从五月份第一次知道户外,到走这样的长线我只有三个月的时间,没有走过一条一天或是两天的短线,我为自己的这个决定一直不安。不是不相信自己,是我不知道出去后到底会有多少的不可预知。感谢五味瓶,是他一直鼓励我,耐心,细致的解答我的各种问。 活动是8月9号——13号,这个日子对我来说,真的不是好事。一直在咨询有经验的驴,我要不要采取措施让我的经期推后,各种说法的结果是对身体不好,我做着顺其自然的准备。7号,我出发去伊宁市,一路的不顺,眼镜丢了,早餐没了,车在半路抛锚了。。。我告诉自己:好事多磨。8号凌晨5点,我到达伊宁市,安顿好住宿地天已经麻亮了。这几天一直感觉经期要来,这个让我纠结,一早出门去了药店,毫不犹豫的买了短期避孕药,在药店就吃下了,希望可以将经期推后。这一天,热情的米菲一直陪着我,准备着临行前的小东西。去拿了给每个人分配的食物,5公斤。 其实我一直很混乱,已经有两天的时间了,我不知道如何写下这五天的经历,不知道如何下手。就是连最简单的记录,我都做不到。。。活动领队:孤魂 雪杉 五味瓶参加队员:尘烟(父子) 塞外の西风 黑骏马 米菲 七彩 过客(母女) 张单 谢 星星 咖啡不加糖(夫妻) 柠檬树孤魂。被伊犁的驴友们亲切的称为:驴爹。伊犁户外的领队之王,非他莫属。55岁的他,全队负重最重。遇有险境总是一“驴”当先雪杉。一直走在最前面探路,大家的方向。本人一直觉得他很文艺,戏喊他文艺青年。歌唱得很好。伊犁当之无愧的领队之首。摄影大师。五味瓶。大众情人。耐心,细致,周到,伊犁户外的后起之秀。 尘烟父子。尘烟是向日葵色板官方这次的摄影,我的图片很多来自于他的作品。儿子苏涛,90后小伙子,很坚强。父子俩曾骑行独山子--库车217线。塞外の西风。话不多,但很细心。与我一起在队前走了三天。强驴一个,头一天晚上精疲力竭,第二天早晨依然可以走在队前。黑骏马。强驴一个,话也不多,但会为大家默默做事。他、我和塞外の西风,相互鼓励在队前一同走过三天。米菲。很有女人味,性格很开朗。过河时总是会喊:“唉哟!妈呀!”七彩。很细心,很会照顾人。每天晚上扎营后,总是默默的协助驴爹为大家准备晚餐。过客母女。队中年纪最小的女孩子静静,只有十四岁。可谓小强驴。张单。很帅气的小伙子。咖啡不加糖夫妇。一对在路上结下的姻缘夫妻。相互的爱好,相互扶持,一起走过。柠檬树。只为曾经走过,路过,经历过,我独自一人与伊犁的驴友们一起感悟了五天。一生都不会忘记的五天。 谢。不知道应该算是新疆人还是湖南人。19岁前在伊犁,19岁后去了湖南,现在又回来。她自己说,在湖南她不是湖南人,在新疆她也不是新疆人。强驴一个,穿着一双不是走长线重装的鞋,走了五天长线重装。星星。真正的强驴娃子一个。看着探路的雪杉的脚后跟走了两天,跟着翻达坂的驴爹第一个翻过最后一个达坂的女孩子,在读高中生。大家都建议孤魂和雪杉收她做关门弟子。 第一天(8月9号) 早晨六点半,米菲打电话叫我起床。七点多一点,我们已经来到了集合地点。大家整装准备出发了。孤魂果断的让我卸下了帐篷,说女人坚决不背帐篷,我很感动,这是为了给女人减负。向日葵色板官方一行十七人坐着大巴车先是来到尼勒克,然后转乘一辆50年代生产的六驱嘎斯车朝山里进发了。在这里不得不特别交待一下这辆六驱嘎斯车,向日葵色板官方进山的头天晚上下雨,路上满是泥泞,这车牛X到遇沟过沟,遇坎过坎,遇泥泞深陷地过泥泞深陷地,遇坡爬坡,由于它的给力,向日葵色板官方少走了四公里的路。集合。整装待发。。。到达尼勒克转乘的牛X六驱嘎斯车装车,装人,装驴瞧这范。。。大哥大呀这路对这辆牛X的六驱嘎斯车来说如履平地骑马的牧民、跟随的牧狗,眼望着一车兴奋的驴,不明就里到达二牧场目的地,全体合影,向日葵色板官方的五天将从这里真正开始简单的午餐居然有卤鸡吃,那是相当的给力呀大家收拾装备,上包,出发。。。行走的第一站,过河,还好有横木,走过这段独木桥就回不了头了。在这里,我要特别感谢孤魂大哥,因为我有恐高症,假装很镇静的我,无比惶恐,是驴爹牵着我的手,走过了这第一站,让后面的我坚定无比的战胜着自己。沿着这样的马道,向日葵色板官方走向大山深处渐入密林稍作休息。后面的人马还未到,开路的雪杉又上路了第一天,这样的上坡大家走得还算轻松第一次过河失败,水大,水急,孤魂怕女人过不去,放弃了这个过河点,继续寻找过河点上天庇佑。在第一次放弃的过河点上游不远处居然有一横在河面上的松木,孤魂和雪杉选择在这里过河,免去了大家的冰冻之苦。孤魂依然一“驴”当先。过河后大家稍作休整沿着河道大家穿行在密林中山中的野果山花烂漫,无人欣赏她也开得如是娇艳野果扎营。准备晚餐。驴爹是大厨,五天里都是他为向日葵色板官方准备丰富的晚餐。户外的男人们都很细心、周详,一扎好营,男人们就会先烧上开水,让向日葵色板官方这些女人们喝上暖暖身子,也会在瓶子里灌上热水让我们放在睡袋里暖脚驱寒。在这样无人的松林深处,我们这些女人们体会着、享受着男人们的百般呵护。驴爹出发前给大家炒了一大锅的肉哨子。向日葵色板官方五天的营养美味。瞧!咱的作料还全活着呢吧茄子炒肉专为素食者炒的葫芦 在路上采的蘑菇,直接蘑菇炒肉了各种吃,那是相当的香呀餐后小酌两杯,既驱寒又暖身。在这里五味瓶深情一唱,歌声在这寂静的山林里份外的悠扬 第一天路程不是很远,孤魂和雪杉说第一天让大家热热身,不能走太多的路,不能让大家拉伤。很细心的领队。驴爹给每个帐篷发了一瓶红花油,睡前再三交待向日葵色板官方把关节各处都擦擦,搓搓,既可解乏,又可驱寒,说这山里湿气重。说实话,第一天,我的两个肩膀和两边的胯就隐隐地疼,按照驴爹的说法擦了红花油。钻进帐篷,寂静的山林里不远处河水冲撞岩石的声音一直在耳畔,一直的失眠依然困扰着我,一夜无眠。。。(待续) 第一天,行程八公里,海拔上升336米。向日葵色板官方五天重装徒步的起始点塞口阔拉沟口海拔1980米,晚上8点扎营点海拔2316米。第一天的行程写完,我就写不下去了,因为不是自己想要的,不满意。语言不满意,图片也不满意,相机在我包里几乎背了五天没有拿出来过,原因只有自己知道。。。每天都真的好累,根本没有一点点想要照相的冲动,笨重的相机挂在脖子上实在是个累赘。。。唉! 第二天(8月10号) 几乎是苦等到天明,七点半,驴爹的一嗓子:起床了!拉开了这一天的一幕。钻出帐篷,外面很冷,天已大亮,高大的松林中,点缀着向日葵色板官方那几顶绚烂的帐篷,氤氲的空气和天光。潮湿的空气吸入肺中,冰冷、畅快。山花仍旧烂漫,今天是一个好天气,上天垂爱着向日葵色板官方这一群痴狂的驴。这个早晨我还能做到洗个脸,刷个牙,还细心的梳了一下我的小辫,在以后的几天里,这一切都免了,离冰川越来越近,河水越来越刺骨,我连碰一下的勇气都没有。 早餐既简单又丰盛。奶茶、豆浆、馕、肉。由于没有睡好,我毫无胃口,塞一嘴巴的食物,就是咽不下去,米菲、五味瓶一直在劝我多吃点,不然没有体力。真心谢谢他们。八点半拔营出发。这一天,我们又过了一次独木桥,过了三道河。而我,很幸运的过了两道河,还都是五味瓶把我背过去的,这两道河是向日葵色板官方过的水流最急、最深的河,每每想到此,心中的感激之情真的不能言表,没有经历过的人真的体会不了,在河水中多走一趟是多么的痛苦,对自身的伤害又是多么的大,站在刺骨的河水中,感觉到的是钻心的刺痛。而这些男人们要来回走好几趟,背人,背包。 而我之所以能少过一趟河,那是我第一次体会到,人原来可以离死亡那么近,那么近,只需要脚下一滑。。。当大部人还没过完河时,我和黑马跟着雪杉已经又上路了,沿着河道继续走,雪杉一直想给向日葵色板官方再找一处地方,试图不下水就可以到河的对岸。我没有想到就是这样的一跟,让我第一次知道“户外有风险”这句话的真正意义。当向日葵色板官方沿着河道走时,一直没有找到合适的过河点,而前面又无路可走了,唯一可以做的就是爬上左侧很陡的山坡,浅露的草皮,打滑的沙砾,感觉垂直八十度的坡度,我几乎是全身趴在山坡上爬行,就这样,身后很重的包依然有随时都会把我拉下山坡的感觉,手没有可以扶,可以抓的地方,脚没有可以踩,可以扒牢的地方,看着雪杉和黑马过去的地方,我却没有可以下脚的去处,在那一刻,惶恐油然而生,一身的冷汗,看着向山下滚落的小石块,我感觉那就是我自己,只要一个不小心,只要脚下一滑,可能连一声惊叫都来不及发出。。。当我终于爬上山坡,对着黑马说的第一句话就是:我***要是再爬一次这样的山,我就不是人。黑马无语的笑我,看得出来,他也爬得很惊心。而这句话,在第三天里,得到了很好的验证:我只是一头驴,一头强悍、倔强的驴。。。 所幸的是孤魂领着剩下的大部人马,没有跟着向日葵色板官方爬那个山坡,他们选择了在山坡下过河,这是英明的孤魂做的最英明的决定。第二天过独木桥,大家已经没有惊心动魄了,都过得很从容。孤魂给每个过桥的驴们交待着要领。男驴们都拿着两个包过桥,女人大多都是不负重过去的。我也已经可以过得很从容了,过之前孤魂跟我说,手千万不要放开绳子,不论遇到什么情况都不要松开抓着绳子的手。那一刻,我知道,原来大家挑战的都是自己,自己才是自己的敌人。而我跟自己过招,胜了一个回合。五味瓶最后把我的包背过了河。感谢伊犁的男人们。继续上路,松林渐远了终于有了稍微平坦点的路,开始有了裸露的岩石,说明向日葵色板官方的海拔在一步步升高护山金牛?看谁敢从此过。。。走这段的时候,一直有一头牛跟着我走了很长一段路,吓得我要命,一直怀疑是不是我穿的衣服的原故,所以这段路,我脚下可是生风一般呀,感谢牛大哥了这马。。。这牛。。。绝了过河。这是过的第一道河,河宽,水流急,河水深。难度高。感谢五味瓶,将我背过了河。趴在他背上我都可以感觉到水流得很急,他脚下走不稳。咖啡背着两个包过河,河水太急,他脚下站不稳,在这里摔到了河里,还好人没事,只是冲走了他的一双鞋。可见这看似平缓的河面,其实水流很急的过完河,休息,简单的午餐。继续上路,今天的任务还没有完成。一步步朝冰达坂进发裸露的岩石更多了在这样的巨石间,向日葵色板官方走了很长时间。会当凌绝顶沼泽里湿湿苔藓上开的小花。生命有时真的很惊人,你看开的多惊艳不知名的花开在这湿漉漉的湿地里,也不忘展现自己的美草地大片退却,空气中的冷气提醒着向日葵色板官方,离冰川越来越近了这泉水,入口甘甜我无语了。。。小花踩上去软软的,下面都是水这红配绿咋就这么美呢顽强的生命在哪里都能开出醉人花来,顽强的生命在哪里都可以展示自己的美丽。在我爬坡的时候,大队人马正在过的第三道河看来河水依然很急,大队人马过河时,向日葵色板官方已经在另外一个山头了。胆战心惊后,小憩一会,给自己压压惊。 过河扎营。 第二天的晚餐是面条、三菜。五味瓶知道我不太吃肉,专门炒了素莲花白早早给我盛了出来。当我把黑马下的挂面拌在碗里,我依然毫无味口,一碗饭从头吃到尾。说实话,由于海拔太高,面根本就煮不熟,然然的,黑马看出了我吃不下去,一个劲的跟我说,必须吃完,必须吃完,不许剩饭。驴爹也看出我吃不下去,叫我过去把蒜苔炒肉的热汤给我盛了些,米菲、五味瓶都在劝我多吃些。现在想起,我依然满含感激的泪水。大家如亲人般的关心,呵护着我。在这里我真心谢谢一起走过的伊犁的驴友们,是你们让我体会到户外真的亲如一家。谢谢你们!!白天跟五味瓶说起我睡不着,让他晚上把手表给我,我只想知道夜的时间走的有多慢,睡前五味瓶专门把他的表给我,虽然由于没电,那表我啥时候看都是一点半,但这一点也不影响我对伊犁驴友的感激。(待续) 第二天:行程14公里,海拔上升930米。(扎营地海拔3048米) 第三天(8月11号) 第三天,依然是七点半,驴爹的一嗓子:起床了!拉开了这一天的序幕。早晨的山中,依然是个好天气。没有城市的喧嚣,没有城市的狼烟。吸入肺中的是大自然再清新不过的氧气了。简单的早餐后,大家整装出发。对于这一天,我的思绪、我的记忆一直很混乱,记得最清晰的就是翻冰达坂(3670米),在我感觉中是又一次体验了生与死的距离。这一天过了四趟河,冰川下的河水,依然钻心刺骨的疼。这一天我冻得几乎失温,夜晚睡在四周都是水的河床上,一晚上都是冰冷,感觉身子底下都是水,一晚上我都将手垫在腰下。漫山遍野的小花生命在这里释诠真正的高山雪菊 天地的尤物漫山遍野的雪菊高山野罂粟点点滴滴的小花点缀着这高山之巅冰川就在眼前了绿草、岩石、碎石破、千年的冰川娇艳向冰川一步步靠近跨过这冰川河流、走过这草地([]
每年至少游一个地方,是这几年一直所追求的。当然,都是自由行。2011年去过新疆,进行过一天的徒步,就被这种旅行方式深深吸引,全身心地投入,去感觉大自然对身体和心灵的冲击和洗礼,让所有的一切得到彻底的放松,徒步游的种子已在心底发芽。一直在网上找各种徒步线路,国内的、国外的。尼泊尔的几条徒步线路闻名世界,其中以ABC、ACT、EBC最为代表。EBC线路大都在5000米以上,最担心高反无法适应,ABC和ACT都是比较好的选择,有逐步适应的过程。选择很久,攻略看了N多,决定进行安娜普尔纳大环(ACT)徒步,原旅伴都因各种原因无法成行,一咬牙,决定个人独自前往,路上再找旅伴。而且因为是一个人,仗着身体素质好,ACT也成熟,决定不找向导,不雇背夫,挑战一下重装徒步大环。除了新疆一天漫步式的徒步,个人从来没有其它户外经验,重装徒步更是没有经历过,心里还是有点发毛,临行前几天加入了一个QQ背包客群,找到了一个和我同一线路的旅伴,就这样,开始我人生第一次重装徒步行。 尼泊尔徒步线路众多,被称为徒步者的天堂,一点也不为过,而安娜普尔纳大环线则被誉为“世界第一徒步线路”。确实,一圈走下来,深切地感受到了她的魅力。先把行程列一下,给想去的朋友一个参考:第一天:加德满都—Besisahar—Syange,乘车13小时;第二天:Syange—Dharapani,徒步9小时,行程21公里,上升850米;第三天:Dharapani—Bhratang,徒步10.5小时,行程23公里,上升950米;第四天:Bhratang—Ngawal,徒步10小时,行程17公里,上升830米;第五天:Ngawal—Manang,徒步3小时,行程10公里,下降140米;第六天:Manang—Tilicho Base Camp,徒步7.5小时,行程16公里,上升660米;第七天:Tilicho Base Camp—Tilicho Lake—Sheree Kharka,徒步10小时,先上升1000米,再下降1150米;第八天:Sheree Kharka—Letdar,徒步8小时,行程13公里,上升150米;第九天:Letdar—High Camp,徒步7小时,行程7公里,上升650米;第十天:High Camp—Thorung Pass—Muktinath,徒步6.5小时,行程14公里,先上升566米,后下降1600米;Muktinath—Jomsom—Ghasa,乘车5小时;行程49公里;第十一天:Ghasa—Tatopani ,乘车3小时,Tatopani—Ghorepani,徒步7小时,行程17公里,上升1700米;第十二天:Ghorepani—Poonhill—Ghorepani—Nayapul,徒步10小时,行程16公里,先上升330米,后下降2230米。在加德满都“New Bus Station”乘车去传统徒步起点BESISAHAR,一点也看不出是新公交车站的味道,车站破旧,车也破旧,但人还是很友善的,这个感觉,在尼泊尔整个行程中都能感受到。路上堵车是家常便饭,尼泊尔全境就没有几条公路,所有去尼泊尔旅游的人要有心理准备。当然,有飞机的地方,乘机是最快的选择,但尼泊尔的飞机安全吗?心里打鼓,2012年9月28还掉了一架。尼泊尔的卡车都很具有观赏性,都类似这样跟大篷车似的 到了BESISAHAR后,原徒步起点从这开始,但现在已经开始往里修路了,大部分人会继续乘车,向日葵色板官方也在BESISAHAR换乘,一辆公交挤满了人,挤不进的就坐车顶。不过,坐在车顶,必须具备两项条件,一是技术好,因为在山路,车子在行进过程中不断摇晃,而且幅度不小,要当心被晃下来;二是心理素质,这车在山路上行走,一边就是靠着悬崖,下边是滚滚的河水,有时车轮离悬崖不到30CM,坐在车里都有心惊胆战,在车顶,没有一定的心理素质估计够呛。行至一半,又堵车了,那辆430的公交坏在路边,正好是拐弯路口,所有车不得都停下来。大家注意,在尼泊尔山区,公交的底盘比越野车的底盘要高得多,往往很多越野车过不去的,公交车反而能过,当然,这是指专门在山区里通行的公交车。有几位老外等不了啦,干脆背起包来走人,反正是来徒步的与向日葵色板官方同车的俄罗斯小妞干脆当起了模特就这样,向日葵色板官方折腾到晚上8点才到SYNGE,基本上旅店都没满了,顶着头灯找了一家住下,没热水洗澡,随便吃点东西,擦擦身体睡了,听了一晚的浪涛声,第二天早晨起来,才发现住在了河边。第二天的早餐,煮土豆加奶茶,配点自己带去的榨菜,心里觉得土豆含淀粉高,热量必然高,能应付徒步的消耗出发时的背负,毕竟是新驴,这种背负让我第一天就差点崩溃。胸前挂着小包和相机,大包在肩带紧紧贴着肩膀,整个负重都在肩和脖子上,大包腰带是松的,老驴一看就知道背负不对。刚出发时还是这么意气风发的样子。徒步开始,我的新伙伴--阿健,一路上多亏他照顾,才让我顺利完成大环徒步。看了这张照片,才明白为什么叫“驴友”。这大环线上,各个客栈的补给,都是这样人扛驴驮上去的。 前两天的路,都是这样山清水秀空气好,除了有时会闻到驴粪味,至少还是乡野的气味。没有城市中的喧嚣和汽车尾气的污染。向日葵色板官方几乎都是每天上午7点出发,下午2-5点到目的地。这是向日葵色板官方经过的第一个之字坡。大环线上,这种之字坡比比皆是,这种比较缓的坡走起来还不太费劲,后面有几个之字坡,走的差点让人崩溃。 前面山谷中的村庄是JAGAT,是大环线上第一个比较大的村镇。路上碰到去上学的学生,很大方地合影。尼泊尔虽然经济落后,但对教育十分重视,向日葵色板官方经过的地方,最好的房子基本上都是学校,而且全免费教学,学生统一着装,走出来看着都赏心悦目。这些学生上午10点上课,下午4点放学,每天往返需要走路2个多小时,真是很辛苦。但看他们,脸上都洋溢着笑容,很能感染人。阿建同志跟同学们在亲切交谈,尽管他的英语水平很差,但孩子们还是觉得他很帅,愿意交谈。在这山区里,一般都是几个村庄才一所学校,因此大多数孩子上学都得翻山越岭,一趟要一个多小时。到一JAGAT村口。这些村庄,除了日常农作外,大部分都兼营客栈,以接待越来越多的徒步者。一路上,村里的客栈大都很漂亮,而且干净,尤其是被鲜花装点,别有一番风味,让人流连。客栈的老板娘和她的孩子,看到他们向日葵色板官方照相,很友善地对着向日葵色板官方微笑,那孩子笑容中带着些羞涩,但都是那么真诚,我明白了,为什么那个写尼泊尔的书名叫《尼泊尔的微笑》,朴实的笑容确实打动了我。 过了JAGAT,路过的瀑布逐渐增多在这种山清水秀的地方徒步,真是一种享受辛苦的背夫。他们的背负能力真的很强大,背着这么重的东西,比大部分徒步者都快,而且基本上都穿着拖鞋。这两位的拖鞋算是很好的,穿人字拖走大环的背夫占大多数。而这种背负就是专门用来搬运石头用的。中午12点左右,向日葵色板官方到达CHAMCHE,只是简单地吃了路餐,便继续赶路了。走出村口约一公里后,向日葵色板官方发现河对岸也有一条路,而且徒步者明显比这边多,怀疑自己是否走错路。后来才知道,我们走的这条是新开的路,传说大环线要修公路,估计是真的。但为了保险起见,向日葵色板官方还是打算去走老路。向日葵色板官方返回CHAMCHE,在村里一个不起眼的地方找到了老路的路口。感觉这样的路才是真正徒步的线路,在公路上走算怎么回事呀。向日葵色板官方走的第一座铁索桥。在大环线上,这种铁索桥很多,走起来晃悠悠的。 向日葵色板官方还在桥上照相的时候,遇到了昨天同车前来的俄罗斯姑娘。她们本来没有背夫,后来感觉重装无法走完大环,昨晚临时在住宿的地方雇了村里的背夫,费用好像也比较低,一个背夫一天700卢比(约50多元人民币)。但如果要保险一些,还是跟当地旅行社雇用背夫,能订合同,不满意还可以投诉退款。天下驴友是一家,见面了自然很高兴。 这种路走起来有点费劲,落脚点不实在。 哥俩第一次合影。有飞流直下三千尺的感觉。我曾经在《中国国家地理》杂志上看到过这幅图,当时惊为天堂的徒步环境。现在,这座挺拔险峻的山峰拦腰被切了一段路,山体和植被完全被破坏,给这美丽的山谷添了一道永远无法弥补的伤疤。从理智上,我也知道山里的人要发展经济,改善生活,但看到这一幕,还是不自觉地感到心痛。([]
Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享,俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦,俺先来个免责声明:1。杨同学不认识俺,也没有授权俺,如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止;2。俺没有商业目的,译版版权归杨同学,俺啥也不要,也不承担法律责任;3。没有杨同学授权,不敢擅自发在国外网站,发在原帖处,荣誉归8264;4。俺英语水平有限,欢迎指正,欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分,不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦,希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子,原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co, where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30), 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evalsuate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
美国佛蒙特州440公里的"长小道", The Long Trail, 是美国最老的长距离贯通徒步小道。它于1910年至1930年期间修筑完成。其南端起点为与麻萨诸塞州的州界,北部终点是与加拿大接壤的边境线。"长小道"穿越佛蒙特州境内的整个绿山山脉,Green Mountains的大部分顶峰。 同时它又与美国东部地区的另一个3500公里的长距离小道,阿帕拉契亚小道, Appalachian Trail,在其南部公享170公里左右的线路。美国佛蒙特州"长小道"的英文简介。美国佛蒙特州"长小道"的位置图。"长小道"以地形复杂,险峻,困难而著称。佛蒙特州东部临近大西洋,西部紧接香槟湖,所以雨量很充沛,加上沿途的土质为细泥,遇水后,小道积水不散,十分泥泞,极易导致身体行走部位的疾病。退却的冰川在佛蒙特州留下了明显的痕迹,小道经常使用,在陡峭地区水土流失严重,遇水后,光滑裸露的石头给行走者带来非常不确定的安全保障系数。美国佛蒙特州"长小道"的小比例尺地形图。"长小道", The Long Trail由佛蒙特州的GREEN MOUNTAIN Club的工作人员负责养护,维修,和提供各种便利的设施,象避难所,或简易木屋等。 他们在有些地点向徒步露营者收取一定的费用,以补贴开销。小道依然用白色油漆的长方形记号,在树上,表示小道的方向。外加最多木质的文字指示牌,来提供给使用者简洁明了的信息。这种运作模式在很多美国当地的户外俱乐部都采纳,特别是沿由各州俱乐部分段负责的阿帕拉契亚小道, Appalachian Trail。"长小道"历史的英文简介。我在2009年做3500公里阿帕拉契亚小道, Appalachian Trail背包贯通时,完成了在其南端的170公里,在2010年又从加拿大边境向南走了约80公里。我今年从与阿帕拉契亚小道, Appalachian Trail分岔的地方重新开始,向北190公里,与去年停止的地方相接,从而完成了全长440公里的的"长小道"。限于时间与水平,我大部采用纪实性的描述,并按时间推移的顺序来完成这个记录。2009年8月21日当日起点 Wilbur Clearing Tent Site, MA, AT M. P. 1,579.4当日终点 Congdon Shelter, VT LT M.P. 10.0里程数 10.0 英哩 (16.1 公里)天气 阴天到暴雨我今天的路程。红色的小屋,外加说明,为示意性的夜晚露营地点。我进到镇上的时间尚早,按预定计划补充食品,便沿2号公路往Williamstown的超市走去。我给自己买了四个甜面包圈,和一大杯咖啡,很快消灭完了。购物完毕后,我感到天气十分的闷热,沿着来时的公路返回小道。麻萨诸塞州与佛蒙特州的交界还在照片大山的后面,要有一阵子爬了。由于天热,上坡消耗了不少的体力。到了山顶我发现天开始飘下雨滴来,但没有任何立刻的威胁。 麻萨诸塞州在"长小道"南端起点与州界交会处设置的牌。这里同时又与阿帕拉契亚小道, Appalachian Trail共用。佛蒙特州在"长小道"南端起点与州界交会处设置的牌。沿着它走440公里,就可以到加拿大的边境了,但最好不要越过,万一被美国边境巡逻发现,法律问就来了。我重新上路几个小时后遇到了一场雷暴雨,被迫穿着雨衣,坐在地上半个小时。在到达Congdon Shelter之前,我走过湖边,泥潭,沼泽地等,两脚全部湿透,给今后几天的行程带来了极大的痛苦。我走了好半天终于到了Congdon Shelter, 一个老旧,黑暗的双层木屋。一个来自澳大利亚的阿帕拉契亚小道南行直通背包客已经在里面了。向日葵色板官方聊了好半天,并想法晾干潮湿的衣服,但作用不大。我刚睡下不久,也快要到晚上九点钟,两个年轻人,Tully和Jungli 姗姗来迟。我心里有点意见,但想来他们为年轻人,正在学习阶段,不要过分责备他们。由于我从麻萨诸塞过来一直在病中恢复,体力非常疲乏,人情绪很低落,加上天气不好,脚病严重,小道西周无风景,所以连续好多天,拍片的欲望几乎没有。 2009年8月22日当日起点 Congdon Shelter, VT LT M.P. 10.0当日终点Goddard Shelter, VT LT M.P. 24.4里程数 14.4 英哩 (23.2 公里)天气 阴天到小雨我依旧想往常一样,早早起来,与那位来自澳大利亚的朋友互相道别,便走在茂密,潮湿,和泥泞的树林里。那两个年轻人还在睡觉,就象其他年轻人一样,起来的都较晚。但他们体力好,白天能做出长距离,而且傍晚结束得也迟,所以在行程上并不落后。佛蒙特州的"长小道",处于一种特殊的地质构造上,地表有很丰厚的土壤覆盖 ,且多为细状,或腐质的泥土。由於小道长期使用,表面形成低洼的槽型,下雨后容易积水,而且非常不易排出。昨天的大雨使得小道非常的难走,我很多时候无法越过大一点的泥潭,必须要绕道行走。更可恶的是这小道经过好几个湿地,和湖泊。那里面的水积蓄太多,都溢满出来了。原来不错的,木板条铺设的小道全部被沉浸在好几英寸的水里,我不得不穿着鞋走过去,反正也已经湿透了。长时间的将脚浸泡在水里,使得皮肤变得软。鞋子和袜子受水后,体积变大,加上我仍穿着两层的袜子,一个缺智的决定。因为以上几个原因,我脚皮肤被磨破的机率大大地增加,而自己却没能及时地预见到。一路上几乎没有任何的观景点,一直都在茂密的林子里行走。经过一个大爬坡,我最终来到了Goddard Shelter,一个海拔高度3,540英尺的山坡上。这是我从美国南部地区过来露宿的最高的一座山峰,已经好几个月了。里面有许多往南行走的人,包括一些加拿大来的徒步者。我与他们聊了半天,并在那里吃了晚饭。。因感到今晚在棚里宿营太拥挤了些,我就在附近的林子了找了一片空地,搭起帐篷。 一个父女的搭伴也来到此地,在林子里象我一样。我犯了大错误,将我的帐篷设置在一个小浅沟上,一厢情愿地晚上不要下雨,人太累又不去反复思考一下,但结果恰恰相反。第二天早上发现帐篷里面的脚一端全是积水,衣服,睡袋,睡垫全部潮了。幸亏我带的是化纤的睡袋,问还不太严重。当天的路程及宿营地点。 2009年8月23日当日起点 Goddard Shelter, VT LT M.P. 24.4当日终点 Story Spring Shelter, VT LT M.P. 33.3里程数 8.9 英哩 (14.3 公里)天气 阴天到大雨爬上Glastenbury Mountain并不困难,但我脚上开始觉得很疼痛。山顶的一个旧的森林火灾了望塔已经没有观察员了。我去过不少有了望塔的山顶,只有一次遇见个了望员,并与他聊了一会儿,知道当代的无线电话通讯与卫星观测技术发展很快,靠人工来报警即慢又不准确,又费人工,所以大部分已经废除了。Glastenbury Mountain山顶的火灾了望塔。下Glastenbury Mountain给我一身中第一次这样的感觉,我是象走在一个完全绿色的世界里。树叶,树皮,地表,石头都被绿色所包围与覆盖。小道的表面高低不平,很粗糙,我要用脚掌来掌握好平衡。 这样就造成前脚掌的应力过分集中,给已经感染的破损伤口,主要在脚趾之间和底下,带来了巨大的疼痛。我在临近中午十分,实在无法忍受,似乎意识到一个原因所在,将里面的一层袜子脱掉,好减轻一下挤压的感觉。此时天从阴天转为零星小雨,并逐渐加大。我穿上雨衣,在雨里走了一刻钟,到了Story Spring Shelter。我估计雨还要再下,不愿拖着带伤的脚,让其继续恶化, 决定今天到此为止。我在棚子里见到了一个阿帕拉契亚小道北行贯通背包徒步者,Beam Man, 正在休整。他说他在康乃迪克州Salisbury的一家客栈里见过我。 我当时正发烧严重,没有留意过往的客人。另外我昨晚见到那两个父女搭档,不久又出现了。我原本不知道他们为父女,有点岁数差,觉得有点奇怪,羡慕那男的有桃花运气,但经那男的一说才明白。他们是从Grafton, Maine来的。他跟我将说了在缅因州州徒步的经历和所花的时间,给了我一些思想准备。北边的记为我今天的营地。下面的是昨天的, 因为我北行。下午又陆续来了些背包徒步者,一个阿帕拉契亚小道南行贯通背包徒步者今晚与我共用这个避难所。另外一帮哈佛大学的新生也来凑热闹,但觉得人多棚子里会太挤,就到附近露营去了。他们是参加一个新生辅导适应项目,用集体背包徒步的方式来完成,对我来说挺新鲜的,估计益处不少。下午一直在下大雨,到傍晚才停。我也睡了一个长的午觉。又是临近晚上九点时分,那两个阿帕拉契亚小道北行贯通背包徒步,青年男女搭档出现在棚子里,我此时已经睡了好久了。但一般不成文的规矩是,晚上九点钟后到了营地,就不应该去棚子打扰了,而是睡在外面。理论上讲他们遵守规则,但也太靠近时限,一般人在棚子里七,八点钟就入睡了。他们与我说话,吃饭,弄了我好半天没能睡着。我在麻萨诸塞州的一个营地第一次碰见Tully,那个男生,可能大学才毕业,人挺随和的。当时我被千军万马的蚊子说包围,痛苦不堪,自己在外搭起帐篷。他又因为食物不够第二天要早点下山。看来年轻人不愿被琐事烦恼,计划不周是他们的特点之一。但同时这也体现出他们无忧无虑,尽情放松的生活态度。反正他们有身体的资本和足够的勇气,出来玩,何必象我操那么多心呢? 2009年8月24日当日起点 Story Spring Shelter, VT LT M.P. 33.3当日终点 Spruce Peak Shelter, VT LT M.P. 51.6里程数 18.3 英哩 (29.4 公里)天气 阴天到多云今天一开始的几个小时都是在相对较低的地方行走。可以想象那泥泞的小道给我带来的麻烦。四周的景色依然没有,只有无边无际的绿色树林。我穿过几个乡间公路,也见过一些人家,觉得倒是退休后隐居的好去处。爬Stratton Mountain需要不少的时间,上山的路上遇见一个女性阿帕拉契亚小道南行贯通背包徒步者,聊了好一会儿,向日葵色板官方互祝走运。对她来讲还有更多的路程要走。北边的记为我今天的营地。今天我的脚情况更糟糕,不但很疼痛,而且还发出难闻的怪味。可能受潮后的鞋子与发炎的肌肤共同造成的。我经常要把脚趾向内卷起,避免接触到鞋底,以减轻疼痛。我行走得速度相当得缓慢。我昨天已经开始服用内服抗菌素,阿莫西林,以帮助减轻炎症。越往上走,越能看到高山地带的植被,整个小道的面貌也发生变化。我在山顶与见到一个女性木屋看护员。她扮演小道历史的讲解员,和环境提倡者的角色。我又遇见那两个父女搭档。我歇了一会儿,吃了点东西,因上面温度低,就赶紧下山了。Stratton Mountain的铭牌。其海拔高度3,936英尺(1,200米)。左边便是个旧的火灾了望塔。Stratton Mountain山顶的解说牌,象历史,注意事项,地图等。我在山顶的小歇处。Stratton Mountain山顶的小木屋。住着Green Mountain Club的专职看护员,主要是向大众讲解"长小道"的历史,平时的作业,注意事项,和积极推广环保的观念等。下到Stratton Mountain山下,在湖边遇到又一个父女搭档的背包客。这次他们是从新墨西哥州来的。因家庭闹纠纷,那男的还随身携带许多家庭里的私人文件,准备在法庭上使用。他的小女儿爱画画,他就不停地拿给我看。可我却急得赶路呢! 我在山顶见到的来自缅因州的那对父女搭档正在对面的湖边营地晾晒潮湿的装备,而我因脚疼,走得慢,不想丧失时间。我在下一个避难所附近给一个在Manchester Center的私人客栈的主人打了个电话,预定了一间房间,好明天住进。奇怪,在山里居然还有手机信号!下午的大半行程相对容易,但我脚却疼得麻木了。来到距通往Manchester Center的公路不远的Spruce Peak Shelter, 里面有个来自波士顿的徒步老者。知道我的脚伤后给了我一些水泡帖片。 但我又还给他,我的情况更严重,不是水泡问,而是感染发炎。我感到自己得头上有点发热,估计是发炎引起的低烧。那对来自缅因州州的父女搭档又来到此地,依照他们的传统,在附近的林子里搭营。向日葵色板官方三次见面,似乎已经成为好朋友了。他们告诉我他们的食品储备多,明天继续往前赶路。而我明天却要到城市里去。向日葵色板官方在傍晚时相互问候道别。我谢谢他们给我提供的缅因州州徒步信息,因为那里有一段很艰难。2009年8月25日当日起点 Spruce Peak Shelter, VT LT M.P. 51.6当日终点 Rt. 11/30, to Manchester Center, VT LT M.P. 54.4里程数 2.8 英哩 (4.5 公里)天气 多云到晴昨晚避难所里又来了一批年轻人,睡觉时倒挺安静的。我早早离开,想尽早地进城,好好地休整一下。花了一个多小时,我就来到佛蒙特州Rt. 11/30公路。没有十分钟,一位驾着斯巴鲁的乡绅便把车子挺到路边。他一会儿对我说他的儿子在外徒步,也希望能搭乘到别人的车。我住在Manchester Center的Sutton Place。这家客栈为私人的住宅,上面二楼的几间卧室全部改装为客房。我选了一间最小的,也是最便宜的。但绝对值上却相当的贵,因为这个州是个旅游业的州。这个城市为典型消费型的,有众多名牌向日葵视频色版下载促销店,而在冬季又是滑雪的好去处。我今天的路程。左边为Manchester Center。Sutton Place前的一条街。主街商业街的一部分。主街商业街的一部分。主街商业街的一部分。主街商业街的一部分。主街商业街的一部分。主街商业街的一部分。名牌向日葵视频色版下载销售区。名牌向日葵视频色版下载销售区。左边街对面为洗衣房。 右边是名牌向日葵视频色版下载销售区。左边为洗衣房。我在洗衣的时候,洗衣房旁边一个甜面包圈店。我在里面简单吃了早点,问掌柜的哪里有好的餐馆。那人告诉我不远处的这家餐馆。我点了一份牛排,吃的时候发现,做的太老了,底下都烤焦了,很失望,但还是给了那向日葵视频色板APP官网员,一位退休妇女小费。从第一家餐馆出来。当地的商业中心。我在右边那家超市,Price Chopper里买了食品,我事先知道可以问其经理能否享受与当地持会员卡人同样的折价,有点出乎我的意外,他们很爽快地同意了。这个城市里有几个户外用品商店。一家大的就在画面右边, Eastern Mountain Sports.我的头像,十分的疲惫,和被脚病所困扰。食品超市。一家中国餐馆。我在一个多小时内又吃了一顿午饭。附近的一座高山。想爬山的人,住在这地方不错,四周都有高山。买完食品,往回走去。今天晚上我来到此家餐馆,叫了份牛排与大西洋龙虾,那里的色拉菜为尽管吃。味道比中午吃的牛排要好多了。向日葵视频色板APP官网生小姐又热情漂亮,钱多花一点也挺值的。但这个量对我来说根本不够。商业街旁的景色。商业街旁的景色。商业街上貌似住宅,但却为名牌商店。注意基督教堂前立柱上的中文。2009年8月26日当日起点 Rt. 11/30, to Manchester Center, VT LT M.P. 54.4当日终点 Baker Peak, VT LT M.P. 66.8 (+-)里程数 12.4 英哩 (20.0 公里)天气 多云到小雨,转晴我想早点回到小道上去,放弃了在街头等搭免费车的概念。所以我昨天回来客栈后便于当地的一个出租车联系好,今早送我回小道。那个司机是个意大利移民,娶了泰国的女人,最后明白着向我要小费。通常我是给一点。但只有他以为背包徒步者都是下层人物,年轻人,不懂规矩,先明讲。我感觉到金钱味,很粗俗。个人旅途时间充裕的话,还是搭车的好,至少能帮助省点钱。今天我所走的路线。一进入小道不久就遇到前天晚上在Spruce Peak Shelter里碰见的来自波士顿的老者,看样子太累了,打算回家。Bromley Mt.是个滑雪场地。昨天还是个大晴天,可现正乌云密布,似乎又要下雨了。山顶附近的雪道。山顶上的缆车终点。山顶处为滑雪者提供的避难处。我在那儿避风处,小歇了一会。山顶附近的雪道。 山顶附近的雪道。我肯定这地方为私人拥有。Green Mountain Club与私人地皮拥有者达成协议,让徒步者无偿通行使用。快要走下山顶。注意那石柱上的识,阿帕拉契亚小道,向北。此处"长小道"依然与阿帕拉契亚小道共用一条线路。从Bromley Mt.下来前,前方天空的乌云。可能又是一个下雨天。下午两,三点钟的时候,天开始下起雨来了。我的脚昨天得到一个喘气的机会,加上我买了外用粉状消炎药,有好转的趋势,因此不想因受潮,再次将病情恶化。因离下一个避难所还远,我就开始琢磨在林子里找一片稍微平整的地方搭营露宿。二十多分钟后,终于找到了一个。没办法,山上地势崎岖,那地方距小道只有五,六米远。我才进帐篷,雨就下大了,侥幸逃过弄湿脚的厄运。我睡了个午觉,醒来没多久,听到外面的脚步声,便问谁在那里。那人回答我说他是Tully,一个我已经碰到过好几次的阿帕拉契亚小道北行贯通背包客。我撩开帐篷,与他简短地讲了我的情况。他祝我病情早日恢复,并以后在另一个网络,他的日志里专门提到这个情节。天到傍晚的时候,天开始变得晴朗了。我的心稍微得到了些安慰。今天相对有更多的时间恢复,脚的病情肯定会好转,明天我就可以做更长距离。2009年8月27日当日起点 Baker Peak, VT LT M.P. 66.8 (+-)当日终点 Clarendon Shelter, VT LT M.P. 87.8里程数 21.0 英哩 (33.8 公里)天气 晴我今天脚上的感觉要比前几天好多了,用药和休息都促进了它们的康复。而我在体力上又借此恢复了不少。天气晴朗,小道上的积水消失得更快。我一路"飞奔",想把前几天失去的时间给找回来。我今天的路程。我一大早从林中的营地起来,便来到Baker Peak。从上面可以看到山谷里的公路。实际上我昨天下午至晚上都能听见车辆的马达声。可惜,我拍的照片都曝光不足,对面山谷无法重现。途中的一条小溪。我想这是叫Big Branch溪。过Big Branch溪时的一座悬索桥,及小道指示牌。Little Rock Pond的景色。湖边高低不平的路面又一次地提醒了我的脚伤。Little Rock Pond Tenting Area看护员的营地。他们被Green Mountain Club所雇佣,照理这里的露营事宜。因为这里的使用率高,背包徒步者想搭帐篷的话,一定要到规定的平台去,而且要向看护人员缴费,大概$5吧!Little Rock Pond的另一端。White Rocks Cliff的乱石艺术造型,都是背包徒步者的杰作。White Rocks Cliff的乱石艺术造型,都是背包徒步者的杰作。White Rocks Cliff的乱石艺术造型,都是背包徒步者的杰作。在此,我碰见一个阿帕拉契亚小道南行贯通背包客。大家寒喧了几句,互祝走运。White Rocks Cliff的乱石艺术造型,都是背包徒步者的杰作。White Rocks Cliff的乱石艺术造型,都是背包徒步者的杰作。昨天晚上露营地对面山谷向北的延伸。下面山谷里的机场是Rutland Southern Vermont Regional Airport。 Clarendon Gorge,Clarendon峡谷的下游。 它只是一个小峡谷。Clarendon峡谷的上游。我站在Clarendon峡谷的悬索桥上。美国有些大众娱乐的场所,基础设施惊人的好。佛蒙特州Rt. 103公路旁的一片草地。可见阿帕拉契亚小道的木质记,"A"字底下加个尾巴。这里要爬个相当陡峭的乱石堆。在这个时节,因气温高,我爬得慢,还被蚊子咬了不少口。Clarendon Shelter离这里已经不远了,一个小时不到的路程。我才到那避难所,就看见分别几天的阿帕拉契亚小道北行背包徒步者,Beam Man,和另两个人从旁走来。他们比我要快两天,正利用当地客栈的车辆,送他们作轻装徒步呢! 我安顿得比较早,在吃过完饭后不久,那个昨天傍晚在路边见到的Tully也来到了这个避难所。只不过他想休息一下,吃点东西,看好地图,然后继续上路。他可能在寻找一个非"官方"的捷径,因为这里人类开发的早,到处都有小径或道路。今晚我感到气温在下降,季节到了。2009年8月28日当日起点 Clarendon Shelter, VT LT M.P. 87.8当日终点 Rt. 4, to Rutland, VT LT M.P. 104.2里程数 16.4 英哩 (26.4 公里)天气 阴我上路后没多久就发现,小道的地理与我资料书上的不一样,而且沿途好长一段没有路。所以我心里一直嘀咕,此时每分体力都十分宝贵,就怕爬得冤枉。到了山顶后才发现那白色的记,于是松了一口大气。我下山后就碰到这个走失在护栏外的小母牛。因为小道非常泥泞,我不远睬到泥里,再弄湿脚,但又顾虑从其旁边走过会惊吓她,而把我给弄翻在地上。于是就想方设法与那母牛沟通,让她腾出个地方,和干脆走开。我不断地发出声音。起先她有点紧张,但很快地就明白了我的意思,知道我只想从旁的石头上经过,就朝着我的方向小跑过来,到我的身后去了。我大喜,感激她没有把我给弄倒在泥泞不堪的地上。([]
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